2388 Steps to Lord of the 7 Hills
The tug of the abode of Sri Venkataramana - Tirumala Hills, Upper Tirupathi or ‘Seshachalam’ – the mountain of ‘Sesha’ the Divine Serpent, as it is variously called, is simply irresistible. Its pull as a potent panacea for the problem-ridden pilgrim is just as powerful as its allure for the spiritual seekers.
It’s been an annual ritual of sorts for us siblings as family, to undertake a trek uphill to pay our obeisance to Sri Venkatesa. Thanks to the nerve-racking pandemic, we had to forego the jaunt after 2018. So here we are, JR and I, after a gap of four years, ready to trudge up 2388 steps to seek His Divine blessings. A gently inclined road leading to the steps of Sri Vari Mettu from where trekkers’ ascent begins, has us gasping for breath! My hitherto positive disposition is suddenly edged with trepidation and butterflies somersault in my belly as 2388 steps appear intimidating.
We muster courage, give each other pep talks and gingerly accelerate our pace of walk as we come upon the Lord’s temple at the foothills. The slog up is a veritable test of our cardiac and general fitness. It is not enough that we have our masks pulled down to allow air through our nostrils; we take in lungsful of oxygen, our mouths agape. JR, to the chants of Vishnu Sahasranamam and I reciting Hanuman shlokas, join other devouts who energize themselves and fellow devotees with loud “Govinda” in chorus. It is 7.24 a.m as we set foot on the first of the 2388 steps.
The boundless sky is splashed in a kaleidoscope of colours as the solar giant appears in all his glory. The vistas that spread before us are stunning as we halt every now and then to catch our breath. The enchanting colours of nature, wild blossoms in white, lavender and yellow contrasting with foliaceous trees that blanket the surrounding mountains, are invigorating in every possible way. The chirps and tweets from the avian world seem in sync with the chants of “Govinda”. The entire stepway is covered on top with asbestos that resonates with the thud of simians which swing from tree to tree, making occasional jumps on the roof.
Vendors make hay as the wayfarers recharge themselves with bottled drinks, tea, coffee, lime and sweet lime juice, buttermilk, slices of melon, mango and cucumber and bhelpuri.
It is 7.37 a.m as we touch the 400-step mark. JR and I give ourselves a
pat on the back having covered more than a sixth of the way in just 13 minutes.
We feel encouraged and are hopeful of reaching the top in an hour and a half. Now
and then we wet our parched mouths with filtered RO water from taps that are
there every few yards along the pathway. We feel exhilarated as we cross every
milestone - 800, 1100, 1500, 1800, 2000 steps.
No class, no caste, no chauvinism here – rather, there is compassion
and camaraderie, even a kind of kinship as a sprightly sea of humanity wends
its way up bare-footed, cajoling, cheering and inspiring fellow beings – strangers all -
flashing genial smiles as they sense sagging spirits. We are completely zapped by their devotion and
fervour. We have them in all shapes, sizes and acts – some have walked a couple
of hundred kilometres from their villages in Andhra, others who have come in
busloads carry backpacks and humble airbags; yet others have toddlers perched
on them. There are ladies and young girls who apply turmeric and vermilion dots
on every one of the steps as they march along, menfolk who bow down and touch
each one of the steps in reverence to the deity they proceed to worship.
As beads of perspiration trickle down their very being, face, back and all, their zeal not in the least dampened by the hot and humid weather, I am forced to remember Sri Krishna’s words in verse 26 of the 9th chapter of the Bhagvad Gita :
Patraṁ puṣhpaṁ phalaṁ toyaṁ yo me
bhaktyā prayachchhati
tadahaṁ bhaktyupahṛitam aśhnāmi prayatātmanaḥ.
Meaning: “If one offers to Me with devotion a leaf, a flower, a fruit, or even water, I delightfully partake of that item offered with love by My devotee in pure consciousness.”
Finally, much to our relief and delight we see ourselves on the landing – the light at the end of the tunnel! We have done it in 1 hour and 45 minutes, just 15 minutes more than what we had taken to do 4 years ago. My joy on having reached is heavily tinged with awe, seeing the devotion and utter sincerity displayed by our fellow pilgrims who weather all kinds of hurdles to seek HIS grace and benevolence. The journey is yet another learning experience in this University of Life for me.
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