Panipat - Where History Abounds

Published in "Windows & Aisles"


Historic Moments --- Panipat



History, some of my friends maintain is best buried, associated as it is with tales of the dead long gone and of no relevance to the present! Much to their chagrin, I have always been fascinated by the subject as I view it as a compendium of narratives, much alive in the many magnificent monuments that bear testimony to them. I guess kings, queens, the noblemen and the common folk, their trysts and travails, glories and gruesome adventures - they all spring to life, out of textbooks when I visit sites of historic significance. Panipat is just one of those locales I fancied visiting as a school student, having studied the so many battles fought on its soil. However, Panipat happened on impulse during one of my recent trips to Delhi, after years of planned visits to it had failed.

The historical town on the banks of Yamuna, Panipat, framed by Karnal, Sonipat, Jind, Kaithal and the state of Uttar Pradesh enjoys a rich past and cultural heritage. Being strategically located, a mere 90 km from Delhi, it was coveted by several erstwhile rulers who fought battles to bring the region under their away. The landmark battles of Panipat fought in 1526, 1556 and 1761 and three earlier skirmishes in its vicinity testify to the tempestuous and tumultuous times that shaped the course of events in India between the 13th and 18th centuries. No wonder then it has been said that history was more often made in Panipat than in Delhi.

Panipat has been associated no less with ancient Hinduism and spiritualism than it has with epoch-making history of India. Excavations in the region suggest the existence of early Aryan settlements at Panipat. The place is also linked to the Mahabharata, Panipat having been one of the five disputed villages or Prasthas between the Pandavas and Kauravas. It was also an important seat of Sufism with Sufi saints, particularly Bu Ali, receiving royal patronage of the Muslim rulers.

Amidst honking vehicles, cyclists and two-wheelers trying to squeeze their way between every other form of vehicle including rickshaws and bullock cars, we enter the city of Panipat through the Salarjung Gate, an arched brick structure honouring the Nawab of Hyderabad. Following directions given by passersby, we begin our tour of the place with a visit to its most prominent Jain temple at Holi Mohalla, located in one of the alleyways, not accessible by a car. Taking a ten-minute walk through congested streets, made more crowded by little shops and household factory units weaving woolens, we come upon the temple with its terraced sanctum sanctorum containing several marble and stone idols of the Tirthankaras, encased in glass. A temple of recent origins, belonging of the early 20th century, its ornate ceiling and interior embellished with delicate frescoes is well maintained and run by the Jain community in Panipat.

We dodge our way through narrow, mud roads, hemmed in on either side by little shops vending a host of objects from eats to hosieries, to come upon the shrine of the Sufi saint, Bu Ali, Panipat’s most visited landmarks. There are several legends associated with this highly revered Sufi saint born in 1209 in Azerbaijan as Shaikh Sharafuddeen Ali Qalandar. One such legend refers to the title Bu Ali meaning ‘fragrance of Ali’ that he earned. It is believed that he was named so by Prophet Mohammad because of his act of obedience and surrender, standing in the waters of Karnal for 36 years! According to yet another legend, Bu Ali earned this title as a boon granted to him by the Prophet in one of his dreams. No matter the origins of this name, history records him to be a renowned and revered scholar of the times who earned the respect of people of all religions and castes.

Following his death in 1324, the shrine was constructed in his honour. It rubs shoulders with the grave of Altaf Hussein Hali, the famous Urdu poet, in an enclosed area, the entrance to which is adorned with a fountain amidst a motley of blossoms. Bu Ali’s marbled shrine, bedecked with exquisite sculpture, beautiful paintings and stylistic calligraphy, we hear, underwent additions and modifications by subsequent rulers of Panipat. The simple lattice work in red on the facade of the mosque presents an elegant contrast to blend with the marble construct.

We reserve the dark history of Panipat for the latter part of our soujourn, visiting first Kabuli Bagh and the Tomb of Ibrahim Lodhi, and concluding with Kaala Amb, the site of the bloodbath occasioned by the Battles of Panipat. The change in the environs is dramatic as we leave the bustle and dust of the town centre to hit the road to Kabuli Bagh. We drive on, flanked by swathes of paddy and other fields, their greens enriched by glistening water drops brought on by a mild winter drizzle earlier on in the day. The sun has just come out of hiding to accord us the much needed touch of warmth.

Kabuli Bagh, named after Babur’s wife Mussammat Kabuli Begum, is a beautiful garden with manicured grass and bounteous blossoms, holding within its precincts a mosque and tank built by Babur to commemorate his victory over Ibrahim Lodhi in the First Battle of Panipat fought in 1526.

The tomb of Ibrahim Lodhi, built in honour of the last ruler of the Lodhi dynasty in India, is a simple, nondescript rectangular block on a raised platform that is approached by a few steps made of lakhori bricks. Muskets and arrows rained on the forces of Ibrahim Lodhi in one of the earliest battles that saw the use of gunpowder firearms and artillery. Lodhi’s mammoth army of elephants, and weaponry was no match for Babur’s Turko-Mongol Bow, the ultimate weapon in warfare for a thousand years then. Terrified by the explosion of gunpowder, the elephants trampled their own soldiers in the Lodhi camp. Lodhi lay vanquished and with him, the sun set on the Delhi Sultanate, paving the way for the establishment of the Mughul Empire in India.

Engraved on the tomb, which underwent renovation by the British in 1866, is an inscription referring to the defeat of the ruler by the forces of Babur. It is said that Babur himself took care to ensure that the fallen emperor be buried at the spot where he died, with due respect to a fallen hero who lay in a pool of blood and dust, his crown and royal umbrella, fallen beside.
The era of Mughul rule was reinforced with the Second Battle of Panipat fought in November 1556 between Akbar the Great and the Afghan ruler Adil Shah Suri’s Prime Minister, Hemchandra Vikramaditya, popularly known as Hemu. Victory eluded Hemu with a sudden sequence of events. An arrow hit Hemu’s eye and turned the tides of fortune, leading to Akbar’s victory. Bairam Khan, Akbar’s general, beheaded Hemu and it is claimed that the head was sent to Kabul while Hemu’s body was hung on a gibbet outside Delhi’s Purana Qila! History records that the heads of several supporters of Hemu who died in the battle, were severed from their body and hung on display on minarets at public places to instill terror in the minds of people. One such photograph is on exhibit at the Panipat Museum, which unfortunately I was unable to visit for lack of time.

Kaala Amb meaning ‘Black Mango’ marks the spot where the last or Third Battle of Panipat was fought between the Maratha general Sadashiv Rao Bhau and the Afghan invader Ahmad Shah Abdali also known as Ahmad Shah Durrani. Popular belief is that such was the bloodshed at the place that it turned the fruits of the mango tree black! Hence, its name. Though the Marathas had artillery supplied by the French, they waged the war with horses, elephants and cattle aplenty. It is recorded that the Maratha army was forced to fight the battle on empty stomach for lack of food supply. Adil Shah on the other hand used the Lahore-cast, historically significant Zamzama Gun, believed to be the largest ever made in the subcontinent. Also known as Bhangianwala Toap, this gun made of copper and brass, is presently a memorabilia in front of the Lahore Museum, Lahore, Pakistan. The battle marked, not just the downfall of the Maratha kingdom but also paved the way for the rise of the British imperialism in India.

Ironically, Kaala Amb, once the scene of blood and gore stands today, serene and peaceful, even desolate, giving nothing away to indicate its turbulent history. As I stand in this now enclosed area, and shut my eyes for a few seconds, history from my school text books and beyond, unfolds like origami before me. I can almost hear the battle sounds of centuries gone by – of armours clanking, elephants charging and the ricocheting shells from muskets. My young niece shakes me out of my reverie and we continue to stroll in the vast gardens, reveling in its tranquility.

We amble along the avenue of trees that flank the cemented central portion of Kaala Amb, which is actually a recess inside the earth. Stone sidewalls jut in vague circular direction, holding on their surface a trio of murals depicting scenes from the three battles. Close by is the brick pillar, symbolically erected on the spot where the mango tree has once stood, circled by an iron enclosure.

We come away from Kaala Amb thankful that there are no more bugle sounds or battle cries – the dust has settled on Kaala Amb and Panipat. The sounds of nature reign supreme, broken only by the bustle of flourishing business, especially of weavers – of carpets, curtains, linen and woolens, known far and wide for their wonderful wares. I drive away from Kaala Amb, elated at one more of my student-day desires fulfilled!


Factfile

Panipat is at best a one-day trip.

Reaching: 90 km from Delhi. Fly Paramount airways to Delhi. Commute to Panipat by car or board a bus from ISBT (Inter State Bus Terminus). The distance may be covered in between an hour or two depending on the traffic.

Best Buys: Handloom products including rugs, carpets, durries, blankets and furnishing fabrics. Special buys would be the panja durrie, the traditional hand-woven carpet made by the women of Haryana. Multicolored striped motifs are typical of these carpets.