Jagannath of Jamalpur

 

Jagannath to me was synonymous with Puri until I visited by accident, Jamalpur in 2017. Thanks to the annual International Kite Festival and my jaunt to the kite market in Jamalpur, I had the opportunity to visit the 450 years old Jagannath Mandir on the banks of the Sabarmati River in the old walled city of Ahmedabad, a stone’s throw from Jamalpur Darwaza. 

The temple complex with security guards posted at its entrance, and the trio of 139 years-old chariots across the road caught my attention and kindled my interest. For, neither looked its age! The contemporary nature of the temple’s architecture and the new look of the chariots belied their antiquity. I was equally amazed to learn that the Rath Yatra or chariot festival of Jamalpur Jagannath is the oldest and largest after the one in Puri, Odisha. The eternal sceptic in me compelled me to enter the precincts and satisfy my increasing curiosity. 

Needless to say, the temple has undergone repeated renovations, the most recent having been undertaken in the last decade of the 20^th century. Legend has it that the temple was originally dedicated to Hanuman, the monkey god. A wandering sadhu and ardent devotee of Hanuman, who was struck by the serene surrounds of Jamalpur which was once a densely forested region close to the Sabarmati River, made it his home. At an appropriate site in the forest, he installed the idol of his favourite deity which he carried with him. Soon, the neighbouring folks joined the sadhu in offering prayers and began to worship the statuette.  

 

In the course of time the sadhu was succeeded by Sarangdas, another sage whose most cherished deity was Jagannath of Puri. Driven by intense desire to see the Lord at his abode in Puri, Sarangdas went on a pilgrimage to the city along with some of his associates. One night he had a vision of the Lord commanding him to return to Ahmedabad and install there, his idol along with those of his siblings Balabhadra and Subhadra. He also asked him to craft the statues with the same wood as was used in the temple at Puri. Thus, the Hanuman temple came to have the idols of Jagannath and his siblings in the main sanctum, ritually installed on raised pedestal, the Ratn Vedi.

A cowshed was also built and Gau Puja or worship of the sacred animal was initiated. The temple was renovated during the time of the fourth generation of mahant or presiding high priest of the temple Shree Narsinghdasji. The Gaushala was further expanded and Sadavrat was begun to ensure two meals a day for the needy, irrespective of caste and creed distinctions. Gau Puja is an integral feature of the temple. This is in keeping with the beliefs and traditions associated with the Garuda Purana that one who performs Go Puja is sure to find a place in heaven after successfully crossing the Vaitarni River. Should devotees be desirous of performing it, the facilities for doing so are available throughout the year. 

 

The temple complex which reflects Kalinga Buddhist architecture underwent renovation during 1996 –2000. Attractive murals of Krishna Raas Leela adorn the hall ceiling. It is currently home to a large auditorium where bhajans, religious functions, lectures and discourses take place. In addition, it has resident ashrams for seers and sages to stay. 

The sanctum sanctorum is compartmentalized in three sections with the central shrine dedicated to Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra. The statue of Garuda faces them. Also present near Garuda, is a marble statue of Narsinhdasji. The central shrine is flanked by sanctums dedicated to Brahma, and the original Hanuman.

Festivals form the most attractive aspect of the Jagannath temple, especially the Rath Yatra which was introduced in 1878 and its timing coincides with the one in Puri. However, unlike the nine days of festivities at Puri, the chariot festival in Jamalpur is a one-day affair that lasts from dawn to dusk on Ashada Shukla Dwitiya or on the second day of the waxing cycle of the moon, every year. On full moon day, a fortnight before the Rath Yatra, Jal Yatra or bathing ceremony of the gods takes place. Jagannath and his siblings, along with the idol of Krishna as Madanmohan, are taken in procession to the Sabarmati River for the ritual.

Rath Yatra itself is a huge event that is celebrated as 'Lokotsav' or public festival of the state of Gujarat. The grandly decked chariots of the gods begin their 14 km journey after the ritual Pahindvidhi or the symbolic cleaning of the path for chariot, by the Chief Minister of Gujarat. Adhering to age old traditions, 18-20 caparisoned elephants lead the procession, and have the first glimpse of Jagannath and his siblings who are adorned with ornaments and other finery. As devotees pull the heavy ropes chained to the chariots of the gods to the accompaniment of band, music and dance, there is much cheering and gaiety around.  In addition to the dancers and musicians, the gods are accompanied by an entourage of athletes performing acrobatics and tableaux showcasing the rich cultural and religious heritage of Gujarat and India. The yatra halts at Saraspur, where the locals offer 'Maha Bhoj' to the entire entourage of devotees of Lord Jagannath. As twilight approaches, the ‘yatra’ completes its journey and returns to the temple.

 

Quick Facts

Festivals

While Rath Yatra is the most important festival here, Guru Poornima, Jal Yatra, Hindol Darshan, Janmashtami, Rudra Abishek, Dasara, Diwali and Uttarayan are other main festivals celebrated with much fervour in the temple. Malpuva and Ganthia are usually distributed as Prasad in the temple.

Temple Timings: 4:30 AM to 1:00 PM and 3:00 PM to 9:00 PM daily.