Thursday, 7 April 2022

Ardhagiri Anjaneya Temple   ----   Where the Pushkarini Never Dries

 

 

 

My husband and I pay our obeisance to Ganesha in Chittoor district’s Kaanipaakkam Siddhi Vinayaka Temple and the cluster of shrines surrounding it. We hit the village road, looking for directions to the highway that would take us to Chennai. A few kilometres away, a rather faded signpost that reads “Perennial Pushkarini”, catches my attention. We drive ahead in this direction and see another marker, “Ardhagiri
Anjaneya Temple 15km.” Our decision is instantaneous. We change tracks and motor deep into the interiors of Chittoor district, following this signboard. 


 The narrow, serpentine road is flanked by villages and vast stretches of verdure. After covering roughly 13 km, we come upon an arch leading to the temple uphill. We begin a gentle ascent to the sacred Ardhagiri Hills in Aragonda village wherein stands the Sri Veeranjaneyaswamy temple, in most scenic surrounds. 



 The shrine itself is a modest structure nestled in the midst of lush hills about 300 feet high. The view from the car park is enchanting against the hilly backdrop. A paved pathway leading to the temple is lined with tea stalls and shops selling puja items on the left. The “perennial pushkarini”, protected by raised walls, looms to our right. There are at least a dozen simians hopping from the wall to the trees and shop rooftops every now and then, looking to see if they can do away with some edible booty from devotees visiting the temple. A stately statue of Anjaneya in meditative posture adorns the centre of the pushkarini.


 The Rs.5 entrance ticket duly paid, we enter the temple’s tiled courtyard which serves as circumambulatory path. We follow a structured queue-way to enter a hall that leads to the sanctum sanctorum. A three feet murthi of Anjaneya covered with copper plate, adorns the sanctum. The striking feature of this moolavigraha or presiding deity is that it faces towards north, which is a rarity. This was the direction in which Anjaneya flew back with the Sanjeevani herbs to the battlefield, explained the priest. The deity’s right hand is in Abhya mudra pose, while he holds up a sowganthika flower in his left hand.  His enormous tail, raised above his head, holds aloft at its end, a small bell, characteristic of Anjaneya idols that are made in Andhra. His ears are embellished with beautifully sculpted earrings or kundalam. He is further ornamented with his favourite garland, strung from betel leaves and basil or tulasi leaves. “Garland him with Sri Rama Jayam penned on pieces of paper, he is most happy with that”, add some devotees who stand in the queue alongside us.

The temple architecture is such that the first rays of the sun fall at the feet of Anjaneya and gradually through the day, moves up to his head and finally disappears behind it. According to folklore, the Sun god who was overwhelmed by Anjaneya’s courage and devotion to Rama, decided to pay tribute to him in this manner!

The origin of the temple dates back to Treta Yuga and has an interesting legend that associates it with the Ramayana. Anjaneya, at the behest of Jambavan, assumed a gigantic form and bounded to the Himalayas to procure herbs from the Sanjeevani Hill to revive an unconscious and grievously wounded Lakshmana.  Unable to identify the herbs in quick time, he uprooted the entire hill and flew back to Lanka, carrying it on his left shoulder. However, because of the immense speed with which Hanuman moved in space, parts of the hill fell to the ground in Aragonda, thus creating both, the Ardhagiri Hills and the “perennial pushkarini.”

The impact of the falling pieces of the Sanjeevani Hill, instantly gave rise to the tank or pushkarini, which goes by the name of Sanjeevaraya Pushkarini. While the point of its origin still remains a mystery, the belief that the water has medicinal properties because of the Divine herbs infused in it, has gained momentum through the ages. Pilgrims and worshippers who flock to the temple view it as elixir even for the most dreaded of diseases! The temple priest who gives us a brief history of the temple informs us that by religiously partaking of a spoon of the water for one mandalam of 41 days would cure one of every physical malady including cancer! Similarly, Anjaneya here is all-potent and fulfils the wishes of his devotees, the priest emphasizes.

Another miraculous aspect associated with the pushkarini is that since its birth in the Treta Yuga, its waters have not dried, no matter the prevailing weather conditions and scorching heat that have led surrounding regions to become parched.

To maintain the sanctity and cleanliness of the water, a wall surrounding the tank was built in later times with a gate that always remains locked. However, to facilitate devotees to partake of its healing waters, a pipe from the tank channelizes the water through several taps to a small room adjoining it, especially built for the purpose.

The shops that line the temple pathway, sell plastic cans and bottles of various sizes for the devout to fill the holy water. We interact with several devotees who have visited the temple multiple times and testify to the curative properties of the holy theertham. They claim to have been cured of various illnesses including asthma, arthritis, skin afflictions, TB and cancer. The water they carry back with them remains in a good state of preserve even for as long as four to six months!

Well, faith can move mountains, is perhaps true, as experienced by believers coming to the temple!

Zealous devotees claim that in the silence of the night, they can even hear the chanting of 'Omkara Nada'. They believe it is Lord Anjaneya who dwells here and keeps himself awake to safeguard Lord Narayana.  

Since it was on full moon day that Anjaneya took flight to obtain the Sanjeevani herb, Pournami or full moon day of every month, sees worshippers come in droves to the temple which remains open a couple of hours longer at night, and cultural programmes form a part of festivities.

The temple is open every day from 5.30 in the morning to 9 at night. Tulasi and the pushkarini theertham are the prasadam offered to devotees.


 Though the main attraction here is the shrine of Anjaneya and the pushkarini, temples to Ganesha and Ayyappa lie in very close proximity to the Anjaneya shrine.

 

Fact File

Ardhagiri Anjaneya Swamy Temple Timings: 

Ardhagiri  Temple Timings are 5.00 a.m. to 9.00 p.m.

Ardhagiri Anjaneya Swamy Temple Accommodation:

Accommodation available near Ardhagiri Hanuman Temple Non A/C Rooms starts at Rs.200.

Ardhagiri Anjaneya Swamy Temple Address: Ghat Rd, Aragonda, Thavanampalle, Chittoor, Andhra Pradesh 517129.

Kanipakam to Ardhagiri: 28 min (13.6 km) via Chittoor Aragonda Rd

Chittoor to Ardhagiri: 1 h 51 min (72.8 km) via Punganur – Tirupathi Rd and NH40

Tirupati to Ardhagiri: 2 h 3 min (76.9 km) via Kanipakam – Tirupati Rd

 

There are direct buses from Chittoor and Kanipakkam to Aragonda. Upon reaching the foothills, devotees may climb uphill on foot, travel by private vehicles or take auto-rickshaws which ply the route.

 

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