This Travel Story was featured in Harmony Magazine - AUGUST 2018
Tirupathi – beyond the sacred & spiritual
Part 1 - Tirumala
If it is a pilgrimage for the pious majority visiting it, for several others, Tirupathi is a way of life. But the beauty of the Spiritual Capital of Andhra, named the Best Heritage City by India’s Ministry of Tourism, extends far beyond its sanctity, to encompass scenic vistas, wildlife havens, trekking paths and historical monuments, to interest even the jaded traveller.
Tirupati, at the foot of Seshachalam Hills, one of the hundred Indian cities to be developed as a smart city under the Indian government’s Smart Cities Mission, enjoys a long and ancient history. With seven prominent peaks, each with its distinct name, Tirumala Hills, also called Upper Tirupathi or ‘Seshachalam’ – the mountain of ‘Sesha’ the Divine Serpent, appears like a coiled snake. On Venkatadri, the last, and lowest of these peaks, lies the much revered temple of Lord Venkateshwara. The history of Tirumla may be traced to the 5th century CE when it was an established Vaishnavite centre of learning. However, the deity of Lord Venkteswara, a self-manifest one, is believed to be pre-historic in origin, lost in antiquity, and the central shrine is believed to have been built by the Greater Pallavas in the 4th century BCE. Documented data on the temple attribute its construction in parts by several dynasties including the Pallavas, Cholas, Pandyas and the Vijayanagara rulers. The Varaha Purana mentions Lord Rama as having halted in the Tirumala Hills during the Treta Yuga on his return from Lanka, with Sita and Lakshmana.
My tryst with the temple city goes back several decades, perhaps as a young teen, when an annual or biannual visit to pay obeisance to the Lord of the Hills would be a family ritual, or when weddings would be held there. For my siblings and me, Tamil Nadu-born but Delhi-bred, the bus journey uphill through the Eastern Ghats to Tirumala, negotiating several winding hairpin bends, was sheer thrill, unparalleled. That which was a sanctimonious sojourn to the elders was a veritable picnic for us. We would indulge in the incendiary dishes of Andhra at the very few hotels then in existence, unmindful of our supremely active lachrymal glands and the tongues that would be on fire.
Since those years, Tirupathi’s allure as a potent panacea for people seeking solutions to any number and kinds of problems has increased manifold. Needless to say, the temple city pulsates with a sea of humanity, any time of the year. No wonder then, infra-structurally, it has taken giant leaps since my childhood and now boasts several classy hotels, restaurants, boarding and lodges to suit every pocket. Not surprisingly, our visits to the temple town too have undergone change; piety perhaps, has replaced the picnic-attitude that we earlier sported. While for a major part, it still remains a family jaunt, we have added another dimension to these trips. Following the path of the devout pilgrim - we trek from the foothills, to Tirumala, via one of two scenic pathways – Alipiri and Srivari Mettu.
We begin our drive up to Tirupathi from Bengaluru where we reside, just before daybreak. We cover the 280 km distance motoring via the quaint Hoskote-Chintamani-Madanapalle route. The paved roads are flanked by endless stretches of lush fields that spring sunny marigolds, roses in hues of red and pink, besides other vegetation. Unlike the alternative route that takes us to Tirupathi via Hoskote, Kolar and Chittoor, there are few eateries on our present course. But the verdure that stretches before us in this direction, more than compensates for rumbling bellies that stay sated with snacks we carry with us, and the cupsful of aromatic masala chai and coffee that we gulp down at humble kiosks on the way.
Following in the footsteps of several hundreds of believers, we opt for the picturesque and more pious route to the temple. Instead of motoring up and down 19 km each way from the foothills on well paved roads, we take the part-climb, part-walk pathway to and from the Tirumala Hills. On our ascent, we take the most-used, 12km trek, beginning from Alipiri, a combination of covered stepway and plain road on which vehicles ply.
At three, in the pre-dawn hour the following day, we begin our trek to the abode of Lord Venkateshwara, from Alipiri, welcomed at its base by a towering Garuda statue. We stop to catch our breath every now and then as we negotiate 3,550 steps, almost half the number being steep in sections. The entire pathway is dotted with small outlets providing refreshments and clean water. Chants of "Govinda, Govinda" rent asunder as pilgrims across ages pep themselves up along the knee-jerking climb. As we huff and puff our way up, we recall the stunning feat of the Vaishnavite philosopher, saint and social reformer, Ramanuja, who is believed to have climbed these very hills on his knees!
The vistas that spread out before us are scintillating. Nothing can exemplify better, the charm of contrasting colours in nature, than canopies of vibrant jacarandas and gulmohars as they blend gloriously with the foliaceous trees that blanket the surrounding mountains. The boundless sky waltzes with flames above the horizon, signifying the emergence of dawn, as we continue our trudge up. The woods spring alive with the chirping of birds as they greet the emerging giant above. The Sun's first rays stream in through the gaps in the canopies, drawing curious patterns on our pathway. To add to the magical moments of our climb, we stop to see several frolicking spotted deer in the lush forest park adjoining our stepped walkway.
The weather which is salubrious for the most part of our way up becomes a trifle weepy. Far above, tufts of light grey clouds begin to swirl with hypnotic slowness during the last stretch of our climb, and then the heavens break into a frenzied drizzle. As we continue our way up, we hear the Suprabatham, the invocation to wake up the Lord, melodiously aired through speakers placed at various locations on the hill. This is followed by the continuous drone of mantras by the temple priests. There is an incessant flow of vehicles making their way up to Tirumala Hills. Public buses, many of them in rickety condition, belch smoke as they jerk up for the steep hairpin ascent, and trundle their way up the ghats, bringing pilgrims up in hordes. A little more than three plus hours, and we reach our destination, Venkateshwara’s sacred dwelling; we feel we’ve peaked the Himalayas!
As we make our way to queue up for our darshan of the Lord, we see a fleet of buses come to a screeching halt, their doors fly open and eager devotees, clutching little and large cloth bags, fling themselves out in a frenzy and follow the route we’ve taken. The doors of the buses hiss themselves shut to begin yet another round trip.
The atmosphere is carnival, topped with piety and religious fervour. The lanes and alleys leading to the temple, waft with the heady scent of jasmines, roses and other fragrant flowers mixed with palate-tickling aroma of smoking chulhas, frying vadas, puris, giant masala dosas, chhaas and steaming hot tea and coffee.
As we’ve procured the Rs.300 darshan ticket, our hour-long wait to have a less-than-a-minute’s glimpse of the Lord in all his grandeur, comes to an end. The continuous chanting of Om Namo Venkatesaya inside the temple is mystically powerful, and exudes a positive energy that lingers on for a long while after we leave the sanctum. Our minds and hearts sated at the success of our mission, we are now ready to explore the environs of Tirumala and Tirupathi.
Silathoranam, meaning ‘a garland of rocks’, is a natural stone arch, and a major crowdpuller to Tirumala’s verdant sculpture garden that displays the pantheon of deities including Vishnu’s ten incarnations, attractively carved and coloured. The fragrance of plants and trees in this expansive space is rejuvenating, and is a welcome change from the hum closer to the temple. The arch, a unique geological wonder that is 3m high and 8m wide, curves over two vertical columns of quartzite rocks, and has been sculpted by the vagaries of weather over 2.5 millennia. Folklore has it that the rocky marvel which is located a kilometre away from the main temple, resembles important aspects of Hindu icons – the conch, discus and serpent hood synonymous with Adi Sesha. The arch which rises to a height of 3m from the ground, shares this height with the idol of Lord Venkateshwara at the temple. Whatever the legends, we find Silathoranam to be an awe-inspiring phenomenon.
Sila Thoranam
While theories abound on the formation of these unique rocks, it is believed to be the only such in Asia, and one of three in the world (the other two being the Rainbow Arch Bridge of Utah in the USA and the arch that cuts through the Dalradian Quartzite in the UK). While some scientific quarters believe it could have been formed due to the effect of a wave action from oceanic transgression or intensified climatic settings and corrosion, others attribute its formation to having been carved out of quartzite, or simply by weathering of the rock.
According to mythology, when Lord Venkateshwara first made his presence felt in the Tirumala Hills, he set his first foot at its highest point, a place that came to be known as Srivari Paadalu, meaning “Divine Footsteps”. He then placed his other foot at the location of Silathorana. Following this, with a giant stride he stepped on to the place where his idol is presently worshipped in the temple premises by devotees from across the world.
Moving from the lush Silathoram precincts, we amble across to Chakratheertham against the backdrop of lush mountains. Alternating between rugged stone steps and flat uneven terrain, we bound upon rocks, weave our way between boulders to have spectacular views of a gentle waterfalls that tumbles down to form the sacred Chakrateertham. The pool, so named after the chakra or disc of Lord Vishnu, glistens with coins thrown by devotees, supposedly to have their wishes fulfilled. Legend has it that when Lord Brahma once wished to perform penance, he sought Vishnu’s help in identifying a pure location for the purpose. When Lord Vishnu hurdled his chakra, it sculpted a crater on the hill, creating the spot for Brahma to sit in meditation. Water from the hill streams rushed into this gorge to provide him with water. Safety measures are in place with wire mesh circumscribing the waterbody.
We head towards Srivari Paadam or Paadalu to have a scintillating view of Tirumala Hills and its surrounds. A long flight of steps brings us to a small shrine that contains the feet of the Lord, encased in glass. Through a veil of mist and clouds that envelop our environs, we catch glimpses of the temple towers, mountain ranges and verdant valleys spread out below. It is evident, as in the rest of Tirupathi, commercial interests have blend themselves into the spiritual fabric of the place. Vendors selling infinite variety of wares are everywhere about, while youth armed with branded cameras beckon visitors to have their pictures clicked against sacred nature in the presence of the Lord’s feet, even as pilgrims scatter the place with coconuts that they break with great gusto to the accompaniment of chants of “Govinda-Govinda”.
The clouds play peek-a-boo with the Sun and the two appear to enjoy an eternal comradeship in mystically delightful manner as we head towards Aakashaganga, with its fingers of waterfalls set in the midst of dense woods. It is awash with colour and is pulsating with bathers who are everywhere about it – in the rocky pools created by the aqueous deluge, on sinewy tree trunks that have branched out at comfortable heights to allow them to sit, and on steps leading to the base of the falls.
The waterfall has its own sacred story to relate as its water flows gently, brushing and bathing the randomly jutting rocks and boulders, tracing sinusoidal paths, before it tumbles in a gush at several places, spreading like serpentine fingers of froth. I lose myself in the integrated harmony I see before me – the rocks, dense green woods, sky with tufts of clouds and the deluge of water – it is virtual poetry exchanged between the forces of nature.
Besides being sought as a picnic spot for a vast majority of pilgrims who come here to “wash away their sins”, water for the temple rituals are accessed from this sacred Akashaganga Waterfalls or Akashaganga “Theertham”, located 5 km away from the temple. The tumbling water which becomes a deluge during the monsoons, also finds mention in the Vedas and has an interesting legend associated with it. It is believed to have originated from the feet of the Tirumala deity. According to legend, the Lord of the Seven Hills, in the guise of a fowler is believed to have created the waterfall to facilitate one of his most fervent and aged devotee, Thirumala Nambi, to access water for his daily rituals, instead of having to bring water from the Papavinasanam Falls, further away.
Papavinasanam Falls or Theertham
Our curiosity is kindled and we make our way to the Gogarbham Dam, Papavinasanam Falls or Theertham and the dam by the same name. Rivulets of water flow from the hills to create the magical Papavinasam which we access easily from the vehicular road. There are young hikers who take the more adventurous rocky footpath to reach this serene beauty. Gogarbham Dam, one of the reservoirs that supply water to the Tirumala township, is set scenically in the midst of green mountains. Little islands of green mounds ridden with shrubs and trees, attract a host of winged visitors. An avian drama unfolds itself before us as the feathered creatures perform their unique acrobatics, soaring now, swooping down the next minute.
We brave the heavenly downpour to reach Talakona Falls, about 50 km from Tirupathi. The thunderous avalanche tumbles down 270 foot, creating jet sprays of frothy white in its wake. A plethora of wild flowers and butterflies in motley hues abound in the vicinity. Thanks to the rains, I am disappointed at not being able to capture this beauty on our lens which we safely stash away in our vehicle. The falls located in the Sri Venkateshwara National Park, is also home to the Siddheshwaraswamy temple.
The cornucopia of temples that dot Tirupathi and its immediate neighbourhood, are in themselves alluring, especially for art lovers. On our week-long visit to Tirupathi, in addition to the numerous falls and water bodies, parks and museums, we visit several shrines to savour their architectural and sculptural richness. Traditional temple designs, be it the profusion of sculpted deities in miniature, or the flamboyant colours of etched gods that adorn the gigantic tiered gopurams or the semi-trapezoidal towers of these houses of worship, they engross every beholder.
Following a few days’ stay at Tirumala Hills, we return to Tirupathi town, taking the shorter, but toughest, 6km route to Srivari Meetu foothills, which is entirely a stone-step pathway, steep in several places, making for buckling knees!
Chandragiri Fort, 12 km from Tirupathi on the Bengaluru route, is a befitting finale to our trip, which we traipsed on our return journey. The 11th century citadel was built by the Yadava Rayas who held sway over the region for three centuries before the Vijayanagara rulers took control of it. The fortress which subsequently fell into the hands of the sultans of Golconda and then the rulers of Mysore, went into oblivion when it was abandoned in the final decade of the 18th century.
We are struck by the simplicity of the structures within the fort, very few of which are in a fairly reasonable state of preserve. The Raja Mahal or king’s palace now serves as a museum and displays artefacts collected from the fort precincts once it fell into ruin. Apart from the smaller, Rani Mahal or Queen’s Palace, the fort contains within it, a small lake and huge lawns, both of which apparently attract picnickers who enjoy some boating
As the rotund star on the skies above prepares to retire for the day, we are homeward bound, our mind and souls refreshed, not least from the spiritual sojourn as from delightful nature itself, draped in myriad hues and shapes.
Factfile
Tirupathi
Air: Tirupathi has its own airport. Flights operate to and from major Indian metros, Chennai, Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, and various cities of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana.
Rail: Tirupati Railway Station is the main railhead to and from which ply trains from most Indian cities. Alternatively, one may travel upto Renigunta station which is 15 km from Tirupathi, and lies on the Delhi – Trivandrum route. Local public buses, autos and taxis are available in plenty from Renigunta Railway station to Tirupathi.
Road: State Transport buses ply between Tirupathi and several Indian cities.
Accommodation: Fortune Select Grand Ridge, Fortune Kences, Minerva Grand, Hotel Bliss, Hotel Bhimas, Hotel Pai Viceroy, are some of the star properties. However, Tirupathi has accommodations to suit all pockets, including Guest Houses, Serviced Apartments, Resorts and budget hotels.
Eateries: Tirupati is a foodie’s delight. Some popular eateries are Andhra Spice, Hyderabad House, Minerva Coffee Shop, Maurya Restaurant, offer gastronomic adventures. Sri Lakshmi Narayana Bhavan has plenty of options for Vegans too.
Tirumala
Transport: There are two well-laid, all-weather, asphalt ghat roads between Tirupati and Tirumala. There are frequent public and private buses, rented jeeps and cars, taxis plying from Tirupathi to Tirumala Hills. The Andhra Pradesh State Road Transport Corporation (APSRTC) runs a regular bus service, every 2 minutes between Tirupathi and Tirumala. During Brahmotsavam and on important occasions like New Year's Day, buses ply round the clock with a frequency of one bus every minute.
Tirumala-Tirupati return tickets by APSRTC may be booked at Tirupati itself. These tickets are valid for three days from the date of purchase and ticket-holders can board any of the APSRTC buses returning to Tirupati within these three days.
At Tirupati there are four bus-stations located in different corners of the town.
• Sri Venkateswara Bus Station (SVBS): Pilgrims arriving by train can use SVBS, which is located just opposite the Tirupati Railway Station. Whenever trains arrive, buses are stationed right in front of the main gate of the railway station, for the convenience of pilgrims.
• Balaji Link Bus Station (BLBS): For the convenience of pilgrims arriving from Bangalore, BLBS is situated at Alipiri, at the foot of the hills. Here, there is ample space for parking tourist buses and vans.
• Sapthagiri Link Bus Station (SLBS): SLBS serves pilgrims who arrive from Chennai, Hyderabad and Vijayawada sectors. SLBS is located in the Central Bus Station Complex.
• Sri Padmavathi Bus Station (SPBS): SPBS is located at the rear of the Tirupati Railway Station, and caters mainly to the needs of pilgrims arriving in tourist buses.
Facilities at Tirumala:
Accommodation: There are no private hotels in Tirumla. However, the Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthana (TTD) has thousands of cottages and dormitories for pilgrims to stay.
For those who cannot afford, there are several large choultries with free rooms for families to stay in reasonable comfort. Electricity and water are provided free of charge. For free accommodation, pilgrims may contact the Central Reception Office, near the bus stand in Tirumala. Pilgrims can also rest in Dormitory Halls provided by TTD.
For all other pilgrims, there are plenty of reasonably prices cottages at Tirumala, provided by TTD.
TTD has provisions for free accommodation, free shaving of hair and free darshan for those who climb the hill. These free tickets are given midway up.
Restaurants: Saarangi (multi-cuisine with option for vegans), Annamaya Restaurant (clean, modest, vegetarian restaurant), Balaji Bhavan (modest vegetarian fare)
No comments:
Post a Comment