Chingjing Sunrise, Hehuan Peak

Chasing the Sun at Hehuanshan

 

We brave bone chilling rowdy December winds at 5 in the morning, to chase a slumbering Sun, at least an hour and more earlier than he is ready to rise and shine. As we hop from one viewpoint to another hoping to catch him in all his glory, a heavy veil of mist hugs us in close embrace, too cold for comfort. As if this is not enough, a sea of cloud rolls in like fluffy marshmallows, and merges with the mist to blanket the horizon. After an hour long wait,  the fierce tussle between the stubborn clouds and the solar giant, to gain supremacy over their common territory, comes to a tame end. The Sun yields, after piercing through the hazy tufts for a few fleeting moments to show off streaks of his orange hue, made pale by his rival. 

 

We feel disappointed at not being able to see the Sun shake off his langour of sleep to caress the peaks of the picturesque Hehuanshan Mountains with his golden-red splash. More so after waking up from under cozy blankets at an unearthly three, to watch the splendorous spectacle.

However, the three-hour Sunrise Tour that begins from our resort in Cingjing Farm is an exhilarating experience in itself. The driver of our tour bus from Cingjing deftly manoeuvres the vehicle on the scenic and curvaceous Hehuanshan Road, Taiwan's highest motorable pass. Hehuanshan, meaning "mountain of harmonious joy" rises 3,416m above sea level and is one of few places in the country where one gets to see snow, in season. We halt at a few points on our way, to stargaze. For urbanites constantly living under fluorescent lights, we are in raptures as we watch agape, the infinite dark blue canvas above, throb with brilliant galaxies of swirling stars. This more than compensates for the sunrise that we fail to see!

A sky sans Sun, is fairly bright as we climb from Cingjing Farm to the highway's highest point at Wuling, 3,275m, for a photo shoot. 

 

 An ocean of swaying high-mountain bamboo interspersed with pine trees, enchants us. A few hundred feet away from where we stand, we come upon a world of bare rocks. One moment we are looking up in wonderment at the towering cliffs ahead of us, and stare down the next, at the deep, dark valley below. Once again we bow down to ravishing nature, the beauty of which I feel ill-equipped to describe, much less fathom its mysteries.

 We return to base - Cingjing, following a halt at Hehuanshan Mountain's highest cafe, named 3158 for its altitude. Without much effort we slurp down hot cups of strong coffee, a welcome brew for the teeth-chattering chill we valiantly bear.

 Cingjing or Qingjing Farm, nicknamed "Foggy Eden", at an altitude of 1,750m is enchantingly pastoral and lush with vast open pasture, forests, acres of floral beds. Our tour of the village begins with a visit to the Green Green Grasslands where we watch the sheep-shearing and horse riding shows.

 The 30-minute show has a packed audience. There's roaring laughter, whistles and cheering from the audience as a parade of sheep enter the arena, lead by shepherd dogs. We watch in awe as the expert shearer deftly shaves with aplomb, a mildly sedated sheep that tries to wriggle from his grasp. 

The ticket to the green area includes visits to Guanshan Pastoral Area where we see sheep and horses up close and interact with them, and the Nature Theatre of Shoushan Park. Our guide Robert tells us that the skill of sheep rearing was introduced to the region, decades ago by Australian ranchers. The acrobatics and stunning feats by horse riders attired in colourful costumes, is thrilling. We have goose pimples as we watch them shoot targets with fantabulous accuracy while on their perch on the galloping equines.

Following this tryst with animals, we take the 1 km skywalk and savour the tranquil environs of the high mountain countryside.

 The picture-postcard Swiss Garden, "Taiwan's Little Switzerland", our next stop, is welcoming with its quaint setting.

 

 The 'Paradise in the Mist', is an aesthetically landscaped area fringed by giant coniferous trees, and dotted with bright alpine flowers including cherry blossoms, statues from fairy tales, a miniature replica of a windmill and an ice cream parlour.

  Ducks, geese and turtles swim in gay abandon in the large pond located in the middle of the garden. Besides several topiary creations, the garden boasts a waltzing musical fountain that lights up in the evening. Conveniences as 7/11, Starbucks, Carton King and Mos Burger within the Garden complex, adds to its allure.

The local Cingjing culture, we learn, is a unique blend of Taiwanese Aboriginal and that of the Kuomintang army veterans who migrated to the region from Yunnan Province of mainland China, following the Chinese Civil War. This is particularly reflected in the culinary flavour of the region where tourists enjoy with gusto, Yunnan style food.

We are in fruity terrain close to the Swiss Garden. Healthy-looking and juicy kiwis, pears, plums, peaches persimmon and honey apples, beckon us at the local market. But ravenous from our morning and noon jaunts, our tummies call for a heartier meal than a fructose-filled one. 

 

At Robert's suggestion, we step into Spring Hot Pot, with a lot of trepidation. It is close to the Sheep Farm and the Swiss Garden and is one of very few eateries offering vegetarian fare. No doubt it has an exhaustive menu for meat eaters, but for us herbivores, the choice is limited. We settle for, and share the Vegan Hot Pot, which comes in huge quantities! The broth is super-appetizing with all the add-ins paired up perfectly - mushrooms in all shapes and sizes that I had barely seen before, pumpkin, cabbage and mock meat. The piping hot "rabbit meal" as my siblings would term it, is a culinary odyssey not to be missed. A special call out for the staff, that is very helpful, with a combination of sign language and smatterings of English.

Once back to our resort, we enjoy breathtaking views of Cingjing village and the Old English Manor from the resort terrace. Converted to a hotel in 2010, the Tudor style mansion with its white marble facade, giant clock atop its main tower, gorgeous interiors with life-size sculptures, is a majestic sight to behold. Touted as one of the most expensive place of stay in the region at $600 and more per night, only guests booked into it are allowed entry to its premises.

 However, tourists who wish to gain entry to explore the magnificent interior of this edifice, opt for the afternoon tea priced at around $20 which comes with a three-tier set filled with sandwiches, pastries and a pot of tea. Short on time, we skip this experience.

 

During our stay at Cingjing, we are treated to nature's drama of cosmic proportions throughout the day. Past noon, mist and fog float over the mountains, hiding the hillside from view. As the sun yawns out of the horizon, he dyes the sky, a motley of colours, from peach-orange to scarlet and purple, before darkening to obsidian. Nature in its myriad hues is enigmatic, keeping us humbled before her. A sense of calm and serene satisfaction overwhelms us, as we bid adieu to Cingjing.

 

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