Thillai Vilagam Veera Kothandarama Swamy ---- A Tale and Trail
The drive from Kumbakonam to Veera Kodandarama Swamy Temple in the nondescript hamlet of Thillai Vilagam, is picturesque and pastoral, through winding roads flanked by lush paddy fields, and dotted with infinite villages. The deity in this abhimana sthalam being our Kula Devata, we eagerly look forward to our annual pilgrimage to the 1000-year old sanctum, mostly in January.
Known in Ramayana times as Thillai Vanam, it was the Dandakaranya kshetra where sage Bharadwaja lived in his ashram. This is the only shrine of its kind with the idols of Rama and Anjaneya the way they are.
The East-facing Rama, portrayed in the wedding pose, is resplendent in all finery and stands majestically in Tribangi posture, his body curved at the neck, hip and leg. To his left stands Lakshmana and to his right is Sita, her sari tied to Rama’s attire, signifying the wedding mode.
The 5 feet tall idol of Rama, holds a bow and arrow in the left and right hands respectively. We are amazed to see the well-defined life-like features of Rama’s hands and legs – the distinct finger ring and sharp nails, moles and the green nerves on his legs, knee caps and the sacred protective thread tied by mother Kausalya on his left ankle to ward off evil forces. Even scars from injuries sustained in the battle against Ravana, appear stark and realistic.
This is believed to be the only Rama temple where Moolavar or the presiding deity, Lord Veera Kodanda Rama, is seen holding an arrow in his right hand with the inscription ‘Rama Saram’, considered the essence of Rama’s philosophy in life – Oru Sol Oru Il Oru Vil - meaning (One word – Rama did not go back on his words; One wife – Eka patni vrata; One Bow). In other Rama kshetrams, Rama is seen holding the ardha Chandra banam which has a crescent shaped tip, unlike the pointed arrow in this idol.
Historical evidence points to Rama having used this special arrow only thrice during his lifetime. The first instance was when he blinded Kaskasura in his left eye at Chitrakoota when the asura or demon, in the form of a crow, pecked on Sita. The drops of blood from the wound so caused, fell on Rama who was blissfully asleep on her lap. An angered Rama released the arrow with a view to kill Kakasura. The demon, regretting his act surrendered to Rama. But once discharged, the arrow could not be recalled without hitting some target. Kakasura offered to sacrifice his left eye. It is believed that to this day, crows have no vision in their left eye and hence cannot see straight! The second and third occasions when Rama used the arrow was to slay the vanara king Vaali, and annihilate Ravana, the ten-headed king of Lanka.
Another feature exclusive to the temple is the posture of Anjaneya – as Rama Dasa. In most Rama shrines, Anjaneya is seen with palms folded. However, here he stands humbly before Rama, with his right hand fingers slightly away from his mouth, as if he is whispering something to his Master. Legend has it that Anjaneya was reminding Rama about his promise to Bharata, of returning to Ayodhya as soon as his period of exile concluded. Sita, on hearing this, bid Hanuman carry Dadhiyodhanam or curd rice to Bharata who was residing in Nandigrama in the outskirts of Ayodhya, along with a message that Rama was on his way to join him.
Offering
curd rice to Anjaneya in this temple it is believed, would rid devotees of
their problems, particularly those associated with health, marriage, begetting
progeny and navagraha doshas. The curd rice, placed in a 4-muzham dhoti (1.85 mts) is tied to Anjaneya’s waist. When the
ritual began since the inception of the temple, it would be slung on Anjaneya’s
back, in the manner in which he had carried it for Bharata. However, with the
passage of time, devotees to the temple expressed their desire to behold and
worship it. Since then, the bundle of curd rice began to be tied across the
idol’s waist. While it is NOT distributed as prasadam among devotees to the temple, the curd rice is partaken by
the officiating priests and their families. Any excess prasadam is fed to cows,
and if still more remain, it is immersed in the Sita Tirtham or Pushkarini
behind the temple for fishes and other micro living organisms existing in its
waters.The temple boast two more Pushkarinis - Rama and Hanuman Thirthams.
According to Shri Kodandarama Bhattachar who is the 7th generations of priests serving the Lord at the temple, the priests at the temple enjoy the prime rights to have the prasadam offered as Neivedhyam to God since they perceive Him as their child. Just as only a mother would have the leftover of her child, so also the priests eat what has been eaten and left over by God!
The panchaloha idols of the deities were found buried to the west of the temple. Their discovery came about in 1862 through the vision experienced by a certain Velu Thevar who was resident in the neighbourhood. Ayyavu Iyengar, the first generation of priest and an ancestor of Kodandarama Bhattachar, was duly requested to consecrate the idol of Rama that was first unearthed. This was done on Wednesday, the 13th day of the Kartik month of 1862. Subsequently, all the other idols were dug up and installed in the temple with appropriate rituals.
The temple itself, set in a modest courtyard and circumambulatory path, is bereft of any sculptures or works of art except for paintings of episodes from the Ramayana on the walls of the antarala. Garuda stands in the courtyard, directly looking at the Lord in the sanctum sanctorum.
Nataraja as Chidambareshwara with Shri Umayambika
Within the same quadrangle, adjacent to the Rama temple is a temple dedicated to Shri Umayambika sametha Shri Chidambareswarar, or Lord Shiva as Nataraja. Since Nataraja is always associated with Chidambaram or Thillai, and Vilagam in Tamizh means ‘place’, the hamlet acquired the name Thillai Vilagam. This Shiva shrine is believed to predate the Chidambaram temple. We pay our obeisance to Shiva and his consort, entering it through the northern side of the Rama temple
Offerings, Observances and Festivals
Curd rice for Hanuman and Modakam made of Urad Dal on Panchami days for Garuda are specialties at this temple.
Panguni Brahmotsavam culminating in Rama Navami in April, is a grand 11-day celebration in the temple. Priests from several Divya Desam temples congregate here to adorn the Lord in 11 different ways, one alankaram per day. While there is a procession of the deity every night on different vahanas, his procession on Maan or Deer Vahanam undertaken on the 11th day of the Panguni Festival, is unique to the temple. Rama Pattabhishekam which sees the Lord decked with a special crown, is performed with much gusto and fanfare on the 10th day of the festival
Couples desirous of begetting children pray on Aadi Amavasya which falls in July/August of the year and on Thai Amavasya day, in Jan/Feb.
Fact File
Thillai Vilagam is 79 km from Kumbakonam, navigating via Mannargudi and proceeding on the Madukur-Muthupet Road;
50 km from Tiruvarur, off the Tiruvarur – Thiruthuraipoondi – Muthupet Highway.
It is 30 km from Mannargudi Rajagopalaswamy Temple
It is 35 km from Pattukottai and 40 km from Vedaranyam
Temple Timings: 8.30 am – 12.30 pm
5 pm – 8.15 pm
Contact: Shri Kothandarama Bhattar @ 80568 56894 or 04369 245725
Footnotes
Episodes leading to Rama’s Worship of Shiva Lingam at Rameshwaram, Crushing of Hanuman’s Pride, Rama’s halt at Bharadhwaja Muni’s Ashram, Hanuman’s Anger & Vishwaroopam, Meeting of Rama and Bharata at Mudikondan
1. Rama who had incurred Brahmahathi
Dosha for having killed Ravana, a Brahmin and ardent Shiva Bhakta, had to
worship Shiva at Rameshwaram, en route Ayodhya from Lanka. The sages and seers
at Rameshwaram bid him send Hanuman to the mountains in North India to bring a
Linga located there, for the purpose of worship. Hanuman scoured several
mountains before he could locate the said Linga. However, by the time he
reached Rameshwaram with it, in order to perform the worship at the ordained
auspicious time, the sages had Sita Devi craft a clay Linga for which the puja
was appropriately performed. On seeing this upon his return, a disappointed
Hanuman displayed uncharacteristic anger and addressed his Lord and Master Rama,
as “Hey
Rama”, saying he had obtained the Linga with so much effort which was now a
wasted exercise. Rama, in true Kshatriya style realized Hanuman’s feelings. To
appease him, Rama asked Hanuman to use his tail to remove the clay idol made by
Sita and in its place, install the Linga, for which he would perform puja yet
again. Much to Hanuman’s shock, the clay Linga did not yield to the power of
Hanuman’s tail! On the other, with the force applied, the tail became severed
from Hanuman’s body, cause blood to ooze. Realizing his grave error and
misdemeanour towards his Lord, Hanuman fell at Rama’s feet and begged
forgiveness. His pride was crushed in a moment. Even today, there is red-hued
mud around this area in Rameshwaram. This episode also reveals the extreme
sanctity, power and potency of the clay Linga created by Sita.
2. When Rama went in search of Sita and was surveying the different routes to Lanka, he first spotted Ravana’s city from Vedaranyam, roughly 40 km from Thillai Vilagam. However, Vedaranyam being located at the back side of Lanka, prevented Rama from laying siege to Lanka. As a Kshatriya, he would attack Lanka from the front, from its entry point. Meanwhile, Bharadwaja Muni who heard of Rama’s presence in Vedaranyam, invited him humbly to his abode in Thillai Vilagam. Rama made a promise to visit him on his return from Lanka, in happier times when Sita would be with him and after he would have accomplished his mission of killing Ravana. Bearing this in mind, when Rama halted at Rameshwaram on his return to Ayodhya from Lanka, the sage duly went to Rameshwaram to invite and accompany him to Thillai Vilagam.
At Thillai Vilagam, followed the episode of Sita packing curd rice for Bharata and sending Hanuman as messenger to prevent Bharata from undertaking the rash act of immolating himself should Rama not reach Nandigrama on time.
3. Hanuman reached Nandigrama and apprised Bharata of all the happenings during Rama’s years of exile and informed him that Rama was on his way to Nandigrama to meet Bharata. On hearing the tidings from Hanuman and getting the bundle of fruits and curd rice given by Sita, Bharata experiences mixed emotions of joy and doubt. In angst, being anxious to behold his beloved Rama, there was an outburst by Bharata, wherein he referred to Hanuman as a vanara. Angered by this, Hanuman swished his tail and hurled Bharata in the sky. Bharata landed safely on Hanuman’s shoulder to which he held on tightly. By this time, Hanuman had taken his Vishwaroopam form. He flew with Bharata towards Bharadwaja ashram to enable him meet Rama and have his doubts dispelled.
Meanwhile, Rama, along with Sita and Lakshmana took off from Thillai Vilagam and had reached a place, now called Mudikondan, a few kilometres away. Bharata spotted Rama’s tresses as a spec from above and identified it as his brother’s. Saying “Mudi kanden” (mudi = hair; kanden = seen) he landed down with Hanuman. Rama embraced Bharata at this place which with the passage of time came to be known as Mudikondan, a corruption of the words, Mudi Kanden.
Rama, happy with the services provided by Hanuman bestowed upon him the boon that anyone in trouble, any suffering soul, estranged couples, childless couples who would come to Thillai Vilaham, and worship Hanuman, would have their
problems solved just the way Hanuman had enabled his meeting with Bharata.
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My special and sincere thanks to Shri Kodandarama Bhattachar of Thillai Vilagam Temple for furnishing the entire details I’ve written here, over several interview sessions.
Very illuminating. Legends and folklore seem to abound at this temple. Hope to visit this kshetram sometime.
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