Ayodhya In Thailand

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Ayodhya in Thailand
• July 10, 2011
• By Chitra Ramaswamy
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We are in Bangkok and are bored of treading upon the beaten track. We wish to do a less visited circuit. Being a history buff, I jump at the idea of a trip to Ayutthaya and soon we head towards Ayutthaya Historical Park, an hour’s drive from the Thai capital.

The Park is ridden with the historical ruins of the once glorious island city and capital of Thailand for 417 years. Away from the humdrum of oft-visited tourist locales, Ayutthaya, a picture of serene splendour, is a welcome change. Veritably one of Asia’s most impressive and majestic ruins, it stands on the abundantly fecund plain of the Menam Chao Phraya, a rare gem and architectural treasure trove.

We are instantly struck by the well-laid out broad roads and the amazing maze of snaking waterways as we enter Ayutthaya. That the Ayutthayan society completely revolved around water is clearly evident to date, as seen in the labyrinth of canals that are linked to each other and to the rivers. Named after Ayodhya, meaning the ‘invincible’ in Sanskrit, Ayutthaya was founded in 1351 by King Ramathibodi I, more commonly known as King U-Thong.

We drive along the Bung Phra Ram, a small lake in the centre of Ayutthaya, flanked on its East and Western sides by several Wats or temples. The first sight that greets us is the trio of colourfully attired elephants with Western tourists perched on their backs, taking a panoramic tour of the sprawl.

We begin our tour by visiting Wat Na Phra Meru, the only Wat that exists in its original form today, having escaped the ruthless Burmese raids. The site from which cannons were once fired at the Royal Palace area, the temple boasts an unusual statue of Buddha in green stone, placed alongside the Golden Buddha idol. Several of the monuments are within walking distance of each other and we take advantage of this proximity to savour the architectural delights at leisure.

The weather is favourable and the sky dotted with clouds, making our amble pleasant. There is more colour in the vast array of little shops that line some of the streets leading to the temples, a sight almost always seen outside Indian temples. An impressive landmark in Ayutthaya is the towering chedi of Wat Yai Chaimonghaon that appears to pierce the skies. It was perhaps built in 1351, soon after the founding of Ayutthaya.

Called WatYai or Big Temple by the locals for the hugeness of its chedi, it was built to commemorate the victory of King Naresuan over the crown prince of Burma in 1593. An expansive garden dedicated to the king is part of the complex. A life-size reclining Buddha adorns one of its viharas which is now in a state of dilapidation but must have certainly been an impressive structure in its heydays. Plenty of Buddha idols and small chedis adorn its lush gardens.
As we move towards Wat MahaThat or the Monastery of the Great Relic, huge blobs from the heavens come down upon us, forcing me to stash my digital companion away. But we continue our explorations, undeterred by the rain that promises to be a freak one. Mahathat continues to be one of the most important places of worship even today, both because its relics represent Lord Buddha and because of its proximity to the Grand Palace. The monastery, destroyed several times, has also been rebuilt as many times! It is here that we see one of the most fascinating sights: the famous Buddha head entwined in the roots of a fig tree! I rue that I cannot capture this sight on my lens.

The heavy blobs peter out to a sharp drizzle as we move toward Wat Ratchanburana, a temple that echoes the style and layout of MahaThat. We are equally impressed by the huge image of Buddha cast in bronze in the sanctum sanctorum of the Wat PhraMongkhonBophit. Wat Phra Si Sanphet, the most important temple of Ayutthaya’s court, looks regal even in ruins. It is dotted with idols of Buddha without arms and limbs. The temple was home to Ayutthaya’s most important idol, the 16m tall Phra Si Sanphet, a standing Buddha, adorned with 172 kg of gold. The entire complex was set aflame in 1767 by Burmese invaders who plundered and carried away the gold with them.

Our final halt is at the Chedi of Queen Suriyothai, the highest golden chedi on the western side of the island city. It is situated on the bank of Chao Phraya River and contains the ashes of Queen Suriyothai, consort of King Maha Chakraphat. An interesting tale is associated with the Queen who is believed to have disguised herself as a man so that she could join the battle against the Burmese king, Tabinshwehti. An image of Buddha is enshrined in a niche of the Suriyothai Chedi. Adding to the beauty of the Chedi is the surrounding verdure in the form of a well laid garden, resplendent with colour and fragrance.

GETTING THERE
From Bangkok, by car: Alternative I: Take Highway No. 1 (Phahonyothin Road.) then take Highway No. 32 to Ayutthaya.

Bus: Ordinary buses run between the Bangkoks Northern Bus Terminal (Mochit 2 Bus Terminal) and Ayutthaya’s main terminal on Naresuan Rd.

Shopping: Browse through Segovia’s famous ceramics and hand-blown glassware.
- The writer is a travel enthusiast