Hilly Haven: Kalimpong - Less explored hill station near Darjeeling

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Hilly haven
• June 12, 2011
• By Chitra Ramaswamy



The early morning June air in Darjeeling is redolent with the fragrance of the surrounding greenery. It is indeed a welcome and refreshing change from the scorching heat and humidity. As we look out from the open window of our room, we see a dense drape of mist and fluffy white clouds thwart the efforts of the giant star above from making his grand appearance on the horizon. A knock on our door and our attention is soon drawn to the breakfast order of piping hot aloo parathas, generously layered with thick salted butter. The steaming cups of aromatic Darjeeling tea is just as inviting. Having sated our gustatory whims with scant regard to the piling calories, we embark on our trip to Kalimpong, 50 kms away, and at an elevation of 1,200m above sea level.

To savour in full measure the breathtaking beauty of bountiful nature along the route, we brave the cold and roll down the windows of our car. The green hills, the endless blue Himalayas far away, the sinuous Teesta river closely following us, rolling tea gardens and the abundant colours of blossoms of all shapes and sizes titillate our visual senses. We gulp in mouthfuls of sweet mountain air and make several halts en route to feast on locally grown succulent peaches and strawberries. As we weave our way through the steep and serpentine roads we delight in watching other holidaymakers having a blast, rafting on the apparently innocuous Teesta.

A vibrant and bustling hill town at the foothills of the majestic Shivalik ranges in the Lower Himalayas, Kalimpong was part of Sikkim in the 18th century. In the early 19th century the Bhutanese occupied the town and began to rule it. Following the Treaty of Sinchuyla in 1865, it came under the sway of the British imperialists and became a part of British India. With the opening up of tea gardens in Kalimpong, it attracted Nepalese people looking for livelihood. No wonder then, we get to see an impressive mix of people, culture and history in this little town, a veritable influence of bygone eras.

The origins of “Kalimpong” is yet debatable: while it may be so called because it means a place where tribals assemble and organise native games, its name could have been derived from a place in Bhutan. Alternately, the town may have taken its name from the abundantly growing fibrous plant, the Kaulim. Kalim meaning ‘king’s minister’ and Pong meaning ‘fort of the king’s minister’, may have given rise to Kalimpong which some hill tribes also refer to as Kalimbong, meaning ‘black spur’. No matter its etymology, Kalimpong is a mountain marvel drenched in serenity that has its share of colour and buzz.

We reach Kalimpong’s highest point, Deola Hill at a height of 5,591 ft, mist and cloud faithfully following us. Needless to say the pair play spoilsport and we barely get to see the town centre below, sandwiched between Deola and Durpin Hill at an elevation of 4,501 ft. Thanks to the mist, we miss out on a spectacular view of the Kunchenjunga which we hear can be seen from here. Descending down to the town centre, we visit temples and monasteries from the several houses of worship that it boasts, including churches.

Particularly attractive is the Mangal Dham temple, set in the midst of green lawns holding aloft a variety of flowering plants in full bloom. The interior walls of the temple are etched with colourful tales from Krishna Leela. We take a stroll along the quaint bazaar for the sheer colour it throws up in the array of products sold. We do not shop, but pick up tidbits of information from the locals who proudly proclaim that they produce almost 80 per cent of gladioli grown in India and that they also grow some of the best orchids and cacti in the country.

We skim past Hanuman Tok, Science City, a few bungalows from the colonial times and Dr Graham’s Home, an important landmark in the town. For, to Dr J.A. Graham goes the credit for having pioneered the development of Kalimpong, more importantly for his project of the St. Andrews colonial homes, popularising it amongst the Europeans. As we stop to buy soft drinks from a wayside outlet on our way to the town’s sprawling and superbly landscaped golf course, we spot a couple of youngsters enjoying a game of badminton on the street. We have a brief chit-chat with them and are amazed to learn that Saina Nehwal enjoys a divine status in the hearts and minds of people living in what I still consider to be one of India’s obscure regions.

Getting there
By air: Nearest airport is Bagdogra (80 kms), 3 hours drive.

CLIMATE: March to June 15°C -25°C. Sunny days,mild weather, flora in bloom.

LANGUAGE SPOKEN: English, Nepali, Hindi and Tibetan.
For more info log on to http://darjeeling.gov.in/kalimpong.html
The writer is a travel enthusiast