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Hidden beauty
• May 22, 2011
• By Chitra Ramaswamy
•
It is a steep, hairpin descent from Ghoom, where we are holidaying, to the main road that takes us anywhere out of Darjeeling. Our chauffeur deftly navigates through the narrow alleyways that are choked with creatures of all sizes and shapes, including the human species. Add to this chaotic street scene is the mist that borders on fog, making for poor or near nil visibility. We are on our way to Mirik, a relatively less explored hill station at an altitude of 1767m, midway between Siliguri and Darjeeling, about 50 km from each place.
The name Mirik comes from Mir-Yok, the Lepcha words meaning place burnt by fire. It is two hours to our destination but the journey to it through serpentine roads is as picturesque and splendorous as Mirik itself. Of course, the first half-an-hour drive is fraught with tension as a heavy blanket of fog envelops us.
The landscape en route shifts between verdant and rolling tea gardens and rich forests of crytomaria-japanica trees that appear to drape space and sky. We are 15 minutes away from Mirik when we are stopped by giggling school children smartly attired in maroon and grey. They are late for school and ask to hitch a ride with us to Mirik where their school is situated. Half a dozen of them bundle into our car, continuing to giggle through the way. We bid goodbye to them as they alight at their school gate and proceed a few hundred yards to reach Somendu Lake, Mirik’s centre of attraction. The sun is at its mildest best as mist hovers over the 1.25-km-long lake.
Several eateries dot the lake area and we enter one of them for a cup of masala chai. Since it is still early for tourists to begin arriving, the proprietor engages us in an easy conversation.Feeling energised after an aromatic cuppa, we amble along the 3.5-km promenade circumscribing the lake. Towering pine trees and lush gardens overlook the lake on the side opposite the walkway. The 80-foot-long, arched Indreni Pull footbridge links the two sides of the lake.
We cannot help being awe-struck at our environs with the imposing Kanchenjunga peak serving as the backdrop to this rich verdure that is strewn with maple, oak and chestnut trees. The crowds begin coming in and the sun too becomes a trifle more daring. The fishes in the lake’s backwaters are demanding to have their breakfast of puffed rice, entertaining us with leaps and jumps in the bargain. We also pitch in our bit to humour the Pisceans.
As their grub touches water they bob up, opening their little mouths as wide as they can to grab their catch. I try to capture them on my digital camera and don’t do a bad job of it! Satiated with this exercise, we walk down a few hundred metres to access the footbridge but not before stopping for a couple of crisply roasted and spiced bhuttas (corncobs).
We continue to explore the garden and come upon a flight of uneven steps to reach a Shiv mandir, nestled amidst dense woods. Paying our obeisance to Shivji, we move towards the boating area. We take a leisurely “cruise” in one of the shikaras.
The reflections of the Kanchenjunga in Somendu’s crystal waters have us gushing in ecstasy. The moderate sun and the symphony of the oars against the placid cerulean flow lull us and we dreamily rove our surrounds, willing ourselves to keep our eyes open. Satiated after an hour’s ride, we groggily wend our way to the parking lot and move on to see some of Mirik’s other sites that include the Rameetay Dara, a vantage point from where we get a panoramic view of the town in its various shades.
En route we visit a monastery and watch with amazement its little monks, engaged in friendly banter and enjoying a late afternoon siesta. Mirik and its environs have us truly spellbound.
GETTING THERE
By air: The airport nearest to Mirik is in Bagdogra at a distance of 55 km
BY road & rail: The broad gauge railhead at New Jalpiaguri caters to the rail transportation to Mirik but is 60 km away from the hill resort. The excellent road network links Mirik with other important places like Bagdogra, Siliguri, Kurseong and Darjeeling
where to stay: Accommodation is easily available at Mirik. You may take your pick from the many hotels, tourist lodge, tourist hostel and tourist cottages in Mirik.
BEST TIME TO VISIT: Mirik is pleasant all through the year. The temperature variations range between 13 and 30 degrees in summers and winters respectively.
The writer is a travel enthusiast
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