Bhoramdeo - Chhattisgarh's Khajuraho

Published in "Discover India"




Bhoramdeo ... A Poetry in Stone


Reaching Bhoramdeo:
Nearest Airport, Railway Station: Raipur – 134 km
Regular buses ply from Raipur to Kawardha, 18km from Bhoramdeo. Taxis are available from Kawardha to Bhoramdeo
Accommodation: Heritage Hotel in Kawardha Palace is operated for higher clientele (07741-232085/232046)
Hotels, Lodges and PWD Rest Houses are available in Kawardha Township


It is the early hours of the morning and the sun is delicately poised on the highest ramparts of the surrounding mountains and the sky is a splash of peach-pink canvas as we embark on our trip to Bhoramdeo, nicknamed Khajuraho of Chhattisgarh. The drive from Raipur to Bhoramdeo via Kawardha is a picturesque one. The scene is ever-changing: from the riotous green of the paddy and sugarcane fields, vegetation-carpeted scenic valleys, to the majestically rising Satpura hills, and the unspoilt mountain hamlets.

We drive through reasonably good motorable roads. A nondescript garlanded Nandi greets us as we enter the final stretch of the long, narrow and winding road to the Bhoramdeo precincts, at the entrance to which is a coloured archway. The promenade to the temple is flanked by tall bamboo, sal, and arjun trees, and a clear blue artificial lake on either sides. The Maikal Mountains descend into the lake and in its lap lounge several lush Gulmohar trees, their branches dripping red-orange blossoms. A few boats lie anchored at the jetty and the fountain in the lake centre sends up jets of spray.

The Bhoramdeo Temple complex stands regally in solitude. The images and architecture resemblance the Konark Sun Temple in slight measure and a little more to Khajuraho. While the subject and sculptural style is contemporaneous with Khajuraho, to term Bhoramdeo as the “Khajuraho of Chhattisgarh” would not be apt, considered in terms of magnitude.

Bhoramdeo, constructed on rocky stones in the Nagar style by the Nagwanshi Kings, practitioners of tantra, who ruled South Kosal region (present Chhattisgarh) between the 7th and 12th centuries, is a beautiful poetry in stone. The temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is named after Bhoramdeo, the God of the Gonds, the tribals of the region.

The east-facing temple is set on a five-foot high sprawling platform with entrance on three sides. Intricately carved sculptures of Vishnu and his various incarnations, along with Shiva and Ganesh adorn the entrance to the main sanctum sanctorum. Friezes of elephants circumscribe the temple walls alongside several deities, mythological characters and erotic figures engaged in worldly activities, symbolic of the ephemeral world of senses. The sculptures are a profusion of magnificent ornamentation in black and ochre stone, covering three levels up to the tower of the temple.

The tale of Bhoramdeo is enchanting and goes back several centuries. Bhoramdeo Raja, the son of Sheshnag, along with his wife Ambika Devi is believed to have sat in meditation to have the darshan of Lord Shiva at what is now the temple sanctum. Pleased with his devotion Lord Shiva appeared before him in the form of Bholeswarnath. According to the locals, with this sighting of Lord Shiva, Raja Bhoramdeo himself became elevated to Godhood! He and Rani Ambikadevi, it is believed, obtained samadhi at this very spot in the temple sanctum. Hence the temple sanctum has idols of the royal pair along with idols of Shiva, Parvati, Ganesh and Vittal, in the sanctum sanctorum.

The temple courtyard is an open museum that houses several steles belonging to the 11th century and earlier.

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