Vythiri, Kerala - Paradise on Earth

"Published in "Discover India"


Vythiri …Paradise on Earth



The tiny droplets have gathered momentum to become a thin white veil as we enter Kerala’s Wayanad District from our earlier destination, the Nagarhole Sanctuary. We are on our way to Vythiri Resort, Vythiri which is at the heart of the picturesque Waynad district, about 2600 feet above sea level. We are a robust baker’s dozen who have bundled ourselves into a tempo traveler to journey from Mysore to Coorg and then to Vythiri, all at a leisurely pace, stopping at several spots enroute just to drink in nature’s myriad hues. Mist and clouds merge on the horizon against the luxuriant backdrop of green forests to create an enchanting effect.

We snake our way through hilly terrain and halt on the wayside to partake of some hot and crisp rava vadas that tickle our noses with the delectable aroma of fried onions (a specialty of this region), we feel we are in paradise. It is early August as we journey through Waynad energetic blobs of water perform a relentless jig earthwards. No, our spirits are not dampened because this is our first monsoon experience in years and we are determined to make the most of it.

We are indeed in nature’s lap, amidst verdant forests and pristine breathtaking vistas as we enter the cobbled, muddy path leading up to the Resort. We brave the bumpy drive, getting tossed as we are in all directions, and enjoy the magical, romantic gateway that seems to beckon us with gusto. A good half an hour’s jaunt brings us to the resort and with it a host of surprises. The mountains and dense lush forests are in sync with each other to create innumerable trekking paths, outback trails and opportunities for adventure activities.

At Vythiri Resorts we are truly one with nature! Even literally – for leeches are in plenty and certainly don’t shy from lavishing their abundant love on you. Yeah, but they do it so silently even before we realize we have left a trail of fresh, red blood behind us! Certainly these creatures that are omnipresent at Vythiri, don’t fail to accord every visitor this gooey welcome. Initially, we shriek, squeal and scream at the sight of this red horror, oozing from some part of us. We are baffled at the skill with which these tricky monsters have so deftly pierced us, leaving us no clue as to the region of our body they have assaulted! Fellow tourists, older in experience, even if only by a few minutes, enlighten us about these harmless fellows telling us they would continue to be our faithful companions through our stay here!

Feeling a little reassured that we will come to no harm, we quickly adjust, willing ourselves to be companioned by the leech and get ready to have a blast. No concrete, Five Star or any Star structures here. It’s all traditional ethnic style “huts”, treetop cabins and “cottages”, a complete Eco resort, but most comfortable, exclusive, refreshing with unspoilt surrounds and adventurescape, waiting to be discovered.

The aroma of coffee, cardamom and vanilla wafts through the air and tickles our nostrils. The slight chill in the air coupled with the drapes of drizzle support our stance to embark on a gastronomic odyssey with hot munchies and steaming coffee as we explore the numerous outback trails and trekking pathways. It is a wonderful feeling as we walk into the mist with its fine wet sprays caressing our faces and romancing with us unabashedly. There is a wild cacophony of sounds from the gurgling streams and enveloping woods that are ridden with myriad birds, crickets, frogs, flying squirrels and plenty more of the creatures of the forest! Life is erupting from every nook and crevice but these wily inhabitants of the forests are too active for us to keep pace with. Even the most dedicated shutter bugs amongst us is no match for their speed. We are pathetically slow in capturing them on our lens. For my part I do what best I can under the circumstances and take a shot at the snail that is emerging from its shell on a fallen leaf.

Vythiri is veritably a trekker’s paradise, studded with dense forests, packed with several narrow and winding trails, steep cliffs and gurgling streams. The Resort is a haven in itself that can be explored a lot more but are greedy to see whatever else there is to, in Vythiri and its vicinity. A few kilometers away from the Resort, we dash off to visit the Pookote Lake amidst the incessant downpour from the skies. We learn that this is the only fresh water lake of its kind in Kerala, circumscribed by wooded hills. We wait over an hour for the Rain God to shower his benevolence on us so that we may go boating. Meanwhile we drink in the surrounds as we drain down a few more cups of frothing filter coffee and hot chocolate. Our prayers are answered and the huge blobs from above whimper to a mild drizzle. The boats fill up and enthusiastic paddling begins. The fragrance of numerous scents is all-pervading as we gently cruise on the water and time virtually stops.

Craving for more thrills, we proceed to see the mysterious Chain Tree, located about 3 km away from Vythiri, near the Lakkidi viewpoint. Legend has it that a British Engineer lured Karinthandan, an Adivasi youngster to guide him to the bewitching hills of Wayanad. When the engineer realized the immense potential of the environs laden with tea, coffee and vanilla plantations, and not wanting to share his discovery with Karinthandan, he put the youth to permanent rest. Karinthandan’s soul was believed to have haunted subsequent travelers on the route. However, a local priest it is claimed, caught and chained Karinthandan’s spirit to a Banyan tree. The tree stands here today, bound as an abiding monument to a directionless soul!

Our disappointment at not having been able to shoot the huge variety of fauna at Vythiri is a trifle compensated for, in the vicinity of Chain Tree. For we catch monkeys in their various moods and actions as they pinch and pilfer bananas and other eats from passersby who willingly oblige, if only to keep out of harm’s way.


*****