Breathtaking Sigiriya

Appeared in "Jaunt"

Breathtaking Sigiriya

We are at the fag end of our fifteen-day Sri Lankan sojourn and my aching lower limbs refuse to move in tandem with my yet unflagging spirits. It’s early June and the weather in Dambulla is none too kindly. I can see the dying embers of my family’s adventurous spirit as their physical forms wilt under the austere glare of the giant guy high above in the clear blue skies. The orange ball of fury seems to conspire against us and is at his relentless worst. Gamini, our chauffer from Colombo who has been with us through our journey from the Lankan capital, is trying his best to pep us up to savour what he claims is one of the most beautiful sights in Sri Lanka – the Rock Fortress of Sigiriya.

This 5th century awe-inspiring irregular rock spiking up 600 feet into the sky is indeed a work of art and a vestige of the ancient civilization, cultural philosophy and faith of the Sinhalese, the Lion race. The rock first came to be called Sihagiri meaning Remembrance Rock and was later renamed Sigiriya meaning Lion Rock in the Sinhalese language. Even as several quarters of people and institutions believe that this monumental structure deserves to be called as the Eighth Wonder of the Ancient World, Sigiriya Rock is one of the seven World Heritage Sites in Sri Lanka.

Walking Towards Sigiriya

The Rock, a part of the Cultural Triangle perched amidst the surrounding plain in the Matale District, came out of oblivion with its re-discovery in 1907 by British Explorer John Still. Gamini tells us that this magnificent structure is unique in that it blends nature, design, aesthetics, technology and graffiti. He adds, “We have thousands of visitors to Sri Lanka everyday and even those coming to Colombo don’t fail to travel 160 km from there to visit Sigiriya! Of these, we have at least a few hundreds climbing to the peak. Such is the pull of this Rock.”

Though breathtaking, I wonder if Gamini sounds a little too reverent for a huge chunk of rock! I soon realize that I may not be wrong in feeling so because the rock had been, not once, but twice, the abode of Buddhist monks. The rock area had been inhabited by the monks prior to the reign of King Kasyapa who ruled for 18 years between 477 and 495 A.D and thence following his death, the fortress became a monastery complex and remained so upto about the 14th century.

We arrive at the outer moats. We are now right in front of this mammoth monolithic elliptical structure that has been visible to us for miles in all directions as we have been traveling past it to visit other places of interest. This hardened magma plug that took shape from an extinct and long eroded volcano, appears suspended somewhere in space and looms before us, an awesome giant rising above the trees yonder. From where we stand we see a sizeable number of visitors like us, looking no bigger than giant ants, gingerly making their way up the top. Seeing the deluge run down my daughter’s apple red cheeks and my husband’s shirt drenched from his perspiration, I falter a little – I wonder if we should indeed trudge up and whether it would be really worth it. But the flooded pair suddenly appear to have sprung to life on seeing the Rock. No matter the heat, the sweat, they have a lion’s heart and so we move on. We slowly inch our way to the foot of the slope, passing through a complex of moats and gardens that are obviously not at their lush best.

The water gardens, we observe have been symmetrically planned with water pavilions, pools, cisterns, conduits, water courses and courtyards. We are told that the garden has one of the most sophisticated hydraulic technologies dating backs to eons ago, to ensure a continuous supply of water. Though we do not get to see them spouting water, we are told that the fountains in the garden earmarked for them, are still active during the rainy season. We pass the boulder garden at a higher level and notice the lack of symmetry here, though the rock formations themselves are pretty imaginative.

Arduous Climb to Sigiriya

We are in no frenzy to race ahead to the peak. Savouring the sights before us, we take measured steps to climb the steep slope at the base of the rock as it winds its way to reach a flat covered terrace that traverses along the lower edge of a portion of the rock. Gamini guides us as we stop to make out the remnants of frescoes that once adorned the mirror wall, a glossy section of the rock. We observe that the frescoes must have been painted predominantly in shades of brown, amber, ochre and red. Faintly visible are painting of ladies with flowers in their hair and hands. “They are all perhaps Apsaras, ladies of Kasyapa’s court, Lightening Princess or even Cloud Damsels,” opines Gamini, voicing the surmises of historians and archeologists. The mirror wall has some graffiti on it, perhaps even poems written by men, women and monks who were mesmerized by the frescoes. The wall itself, Gamini tells us, once led to the palace and captured the shadow of the Royal palanquin bearers during the day and on full moon days.

Time and vandalism have taken their toll on the murals, for barely a handful, about 20 of the 500 paintings are visible in some measure. As we turn our attention to the slightly visible blue-colored paintings we are told that these were made from lapis lazuli, an amalgam of the silicates of sodium, calcium and aluminium and that it was obtained from India.

As we make our slow journey to the top, up the narrow spiraling staircase, our progress is checked by strong gusts of breeze. The fierce draught of air is a welcome respite from the torrid heat as we stop at one of the most stunning sights of the Rock – the entrance to the Lion staircase leading to the palace garden on the summit. No terrifying mouth here waiting to swallow visitors up its cobbled steps. All that remain of the king of the jungle are two gargantuan paws! A huge mound of brick masonry encircles the age-worn limestone steps along with the cuts and grooves on the rock face. We are at once able to imagine the gigantic size and shape of what must once have been the famous lion figure! Except for the sound of photographic equipment clicking away, there is total quiet as every visitor is absorbing the tranquil majesty of the environs. We are at bay whether to look up heavenward or look down upon the spectacular sprawl below us that seems to spread as endlessly as the skies above.

We then make it to the ultimate peak, the palace area, ascending through highly narrow and rugged steps. Some sources claim that the palace atop the rock was built exclusively for King Kasyapa and his Queen. Today few rectangular patches exist which probably were the aesthetically landscaped gardens with Dharani, the colorful pond claimed to have been carpeted by flowering water plants.

According to the ancient Sri Lankan historical record The Mahavamsa, Kasyapa is believed to have murdered his father King Dhatusena and usurped the throne that rightfully belonged to his brother Mogallana. He built his palace on the summit of Sigiriya as defense against the armies of Mogallana. Some records however speak of King Kasyapa having built this palace in the sky against all obstacles to hold alive the dream of his father. It is even recorded that ancient Sinhalese plays were first performed here during Kasyapa’s reign. Whatever may have prompted the construction of the palace, no matter shows were held, though its halcyon days may have ended with its king, Sigirya today stands tall in all grandeur, alluring a never-ending stream of visitors.

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