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Wooden wonder
August 22nd, 2010
Chitra Ramaswamy
Tags: Bangkok, travel
Bangkok is not just about spectacular Wats, Chedis, jade and emerald Buddhas, floating markets and palaces, there is a palace that is different from any royal structure anywhere else in the world, the world of Vimanmek. What makes it a class apart is the strength of its colour, shape, simplicity and elegance.
Interestingly, security is tight in the palace precincts and not only are cameras and mobiles not allowed, even pens and pencils are prohibited. Visitors are checked before being allowed in. But the avid shutterbug that I am, I am content with taking just a couple of shots — its overview from the gate. Not willing to trust my memory, if it will be able to remember everything, I borrow our guide’s pen to make some notes.
Often called King Rama V House, it was the first permanent residence in the Dusit Garden, and the world’s largest golden teakwood mansion. The brilliant beige-golden hue, particularly the octagonal portion of the structure, is striking, both because of its shade and texture. The golden teakwood that lends the unique aura to Vimanmek is extremely rare now.
Once the royal residence and now a museum showcasing royal collectibles and Thai heritage belonging to the era of King Rama V, it stands in all its grandeur against the emerald background of dense trees, overlooking lush, drizzle-draped lawns.
Vimanmek, framed by a quartet of canals and reflective of western architectural influences, is full of surprises. The L-shaped structure is three-storyed with an octagonal fourth storey in one of its arms that served as the personal chamber of King Rama V. Except for the ground floor which is of stucco, the entire edifice is made of golden teak, mortised with wooden planks, without using a single nail in the process.
The origins of Vimanmek may be traced back to the island of Koh Si Chang in the Gulf of Siam, close to where it meets the Chao Phraya River. King Rama IV aka King Mongkut enchanted with its calm ambience and health bestowing attributes of its waters, decided to make the island a royal resort in the late 19th century. The royal residence took shape in the reign of his son King Chulalongkorn or Rama V, by which time the island itself grew in importance as a trade route and harbour between Europe and Siam.
Rama V laid the foundation stone of Mundhat Ratanaroj Mansion, intended to be the main building of the Chudhadhuj Palace in the island. However, the construction of this mansion remained incomplete due to the strained Franco-Thai relationship that led to the blockade of Thailand by the Gulf French gunships. The island became unsafe for the Thai royal house, which led to its abandonment, with its palaces and houses.
The idea of Vimanmek took shape when King Rama V revisited Koh Si Chang Island in May 1901. He got so taken in by the unfinished beauty of Ratanaroj Mansion that he immediately ordered that the teakwood structure be dismantled and transported to Suan Dusit, the Celestial Garden, now known as Dusit Palace, to be rebuilt as the main royal residence.
The garden itself is the outcome of King Rama V’s love for plants and trees. He is believed to have created it in 1897 by purchasing orchards and paddy fields between two canals for the construction of this garden. The palace took 19 months to complete. Thirty-one rooms of Vimanmek are today open to the public.
GETTING THERE
How to get there: Bangkok is located in central Thailand along the Chao Phraya River. Most visitors to Thailand travel by air though travellers in neighbouring countries can reach Bangkok by bus, rail, or boat.
Where to stay: Bangkok offers a wide variety of accommodation to suit every taste and budget. A visitor can live royally in an elegant five star hotel or stay comfortably in a guest house on a modest budget.
Where to eat:
You will find eating places almost anywhere in Bangkok; outside shopping malls, inside markets, along the pavement or anywhere a cart and a few fold-up tables and chairs can be placed. Don’t miss out on these places as they offer cheap and tasty food you won’t find in normal tourist restaurants.
How to get around:
Hop on the Skytrain (BTS) and metro in the city centre, or use boats to navigate rivers.
- The writer is a travel enthusiast
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