Marvelous Ruins at Kolanupakka, Andhra Pradesh

Published in "Discover India"


Kolanupaka Abounds in Temple Architecture



It is early December and the grey light of dawn is mellowed by the rays of the sun as we begin our 80 km drive from Hyderabad to Kolanupaka, a village in Nalgonda district of Andhra Pradesh. Our Indica, deftly driven by Mohammed, cruises at a decent speed, leaving behind the broad sweeping city roads to snake its way through bullock carts, a medley of four-legged creatures and of course other motorized vehicles that make their presence felt by their blaring horns. With a couple of short halts on wayside dhabas for masala chai, we reach Kolanupaka in about two hours.

Our first impression of the village, the 11th century capital of the Kalyani Chalukyas, is one of bewilderment and anger in equal measure, to use a very clichéd expression. We are bewildered by the sheer quality and number of sculptural splendour that abounds here. Angry, because they lie here, unattended, in an open air structure that is deemed to be a museum run by the State Archaeological Department. The museum exhibits a wide range of over hundred artifacts relating to temple architecture of the Chalukyan and Kakatiyan styles are displayed in the museum. We do not see any security guard at its entrance, but yes, there are a handful of beggars languishing under the shade of several trees. They suddenly spring up as they see our vehicle and get into their act.

The museum continues into the famed Kolanupaka Someswara temple. The morning rituals are in progress as we enter the temple. But for the sanctum sanctorum, the rest of the temple reveals idols, some of them very unique, displayed in no particular order. The different Shiv Lingas on display catches our attention. Unfortunately, even the temple panda is unable to throw any light on the significance of these idols except for telling us that they are from very ancient times, belonging probably to the 10th or 11th centuries. Apparently, no matter its ramshackle state, the temple is undoubtedly a local crowd-puller. For we see several tens of coconuts draped in colorful cloth, hanging from the sanctum walls, tied by devotees seeking various favours.

There is no doubt that Kolanupaka is a fusion of history and religion woven inextricably in the fabric of life of its people. As the birthplace of the great Veera Shaivaite saint Renukacharya, needless to say, the hamlet has several Shiv mandirs. However, the temple that stands out for its architectural brilliance is the 2000 year old Jain temple. The village had been the seat of Jainism since the 4th century but had passed into oblivion for several centuries for no specific reason. However, in the last century or thereabout it has once again emerged in the limelight with a regular flow of Jain pilgrims to it, year around.

The first Tirthankara Lord Vrishaba Deva or Adinath Bhagvan goes by the name of Manikya Deva here at Kolanupaka. The temple boasts beautiful idols of the 24 Tirthankaras, the most attractive idol being that of Lord Mahavira, a tall five feet marvel in jade. In keeping with typical Jain temples, there is everywhere about, carvings of the Kirtimukha head. Mahavira depicted with a lion on his pedestal, Parshnath hooded with a cobra, Vrishabnath with the bull are some of the exquisite carvings that adorn the temple sanctorum.

Fortunately, unlike the other temple structures which exhibit equally impressive sculpted idols but lack proper care, the Jain temple stands in all grandiosity, thanks to renovation in the recent past. We are told that over one hundred and fifty artisans from Gujarat and Rajasthan were involved in this process.

Lord Kubera relegated to play the role of Divine guard, stands majestically with his royal staff at the entrance to the sanctorum. Elephant sculptures are everywhere about the temple, carved on the pillars of the main entranceway to the temple and at the entrance to the sanctorum. Construction work is on at the temple premises with an annexure shrine coming up in the courtyard. Jain mythology comes alive in this area which is replete with calendar art representations of important associated events.

Festive gaiety is at its feverish best during Maha Shivratri, Kartik Purnima and Chaitra Purnima which we hear attract huge crowds to this temple hamlet.