In the lap of Nature --- Sikkim

In the lap of nature



I guess few places of visit kindle that profound soul-searching desire in you, an intense hunger to introspect and take a peek into the deep recesses of your core being and make you almost one with the Divine, even if only for a short or temporary period. And this is exactly what happened to me when I recently visited Sikkim. If Kerala is termed God’s own Land, I choose to call Sikkim as a land where God himself has come down to Earth, treading softly and serenely in this lap of Nature, spreading radiantly that glow of sunshine which I feel is a veritable balm to soothe every aching and thirsting soul. Even as I set foot on this soil, I realize that Sikkim for me is going to be a spiritual adventure of sorts!

7 Sisters Waterfalls in Fury

I am very much on Mother Earth, my feet firmly rooted to terra firma and our trip to Sikkim in early June begins in truly adventurous style. Practically at the eleventh hour before embarking on our tour, we are forced to change our travel plans. Instead of taking the train from Champa to Calcutta, our entry point to access Sikkim, we fly to Delhi from Raipur. Our road travel from Korba, where we reside, to Raipur is fraught with tension due to an inordinately long line of trucks that has caused a traffic jam. It’s touch and go as we finally reach Raipur Airport, just in time to board our flight to Delhi. All’s well till we land in Calcutta and check into Hotel Peerless. We are to board the train to New Jalpaigudi from here in the late evening. However, as luck would have it, a State-wide bandh to protest the fuel price hike has been declared and we are stuck in our hotel room for the next couple of days. We re-book ourselves by bus on the third day to reach Gangtok, Sikkim’s capital, which we use as base to tour around the State’s various tourist sites. We check into Hotel Danzong Shangri La from where we hire an Innova with Longfu as our chauffer and guide for the 5-day tour of Sikkim.

Hanuman Tok

Sikkim, I would say is synonymous with Nature, draped in all grandeur – evidently showing off its dense and luxuriant forests, crystal clear streams, stretches of exotic blossoms, untamed and magnificent mountains, virgin and pristine in all their glory. I feel I am transported heavenwards as I spin myself in a dreamy rhapsody on a floating paradise. Clouds and mist envelop me in their caressing arms as much as they embrace the mountains over which they tantalizingly hang and swirl alternately. An oasis of natural beauty tucked away in India’s northeastern corner, Ensconced in the lap of the towering Kangchendzonga or Kanchenjunga ranges, Sikkim is indeed an oasis of natural beauty, tucked away in India’s northeastern corner, boasting amazing contours, colours, flag festooned villages and intrinsic life-rhythms! I feel an instant communion with the Almighty, sensing bounteous Nature in the sights that he has so gloriously created. As I stand and stare at my environs so pure, and enriched, superlatives elude me as I set out to describe my sense of elation. My holiday here I feel is a much-need surcease from the mundane, pressure-ridden routine in which I have trapped myself. Yet again, I’m compelled to say that Sikkim for me is a voyage into the realms of meditation, a delving into the inner self, even an elixir for my aching soul!

Coiled inside a crevice

We, my husband and I begin our explorative sojourn of Sikkim with Gangtok. The architectural splendour of the city with its pagoda-like wooden houses, its Lal Bazaar and M.G.Marg cast a magical spell on us with their sheer colour, unhurried pace and the smiling faces of the Sikkimese people. I am reminded of La Rambla in Barcelona, Spain, as we stroll down M.G.Marg with its bustling eateries and vibrant shops, selling a medley of wares, from clothes to crockery, electronics and artifacts and souvenirs.

It is evident that religion forms an integral part of the routine of the Sikkimese people. Longfu informs us that there are at least two hundred monasteries spread all over Sikkim, the epicenters of faith and the repositories of culture of the locals. We are a little puzzled by several white flags fluttering in some regions and hosts of coloured ones, even in the tiniest of hamlets as we drive along the State’s winding roads. These, Longfu explains to us are the prayer flags, about 113 white ones hoisted up as a mark of respect for the dead, and the flapping colour flags in celebration of life. The moasteries are ridden with a wealth of artifacts, besides being architecturally delightful. One of the first such portals we journey to is closer home, to Shangri La, the 200 year old Enchey Monastery, built on the site believed to be blessed by Lama Druptob Karpo, a tantric master who was known for his power of flying! While in Gangtok we visit the Chogyal Palden Thondup Memorial Park, the Orchid Garden, the Ridge and the White Hall, besides the Tashi View Point, Ganesh Tok, Hanuman Tok, the Saramsa Garden, Changu Lake and the monastery at Lingdum, all of which abound in colour and offer panoramic views of the city and its neighbourhood. The sprawling Himalayan Zoological Park is a revelation with its wildlife existing in very natural surrounds.

A clean sweep of the mudslide

Our drive to Rumtek, a distance of 25 km from Gangtok is breathtakingly scenic. We roll down the windows of our Innova and take deep breaths of the intoxicatingly fresh mountain air that is very invigorating. Longu defty maneuvers the vehicle through sharp hairpin bends on a road that is steeply sloped and meanders up the hill, serpent-like.

There is color everywhere as we enter Rumtek, Sikkim’s largest Buddhist monastery, perched on a hill facing Gangtok, at 5,500 feet above sea level. Set in sylvan surroundings, Rumtek is bewitching in its beauty. It is believed to embody the vision of Rangjung Rigpe Dorge, the 16th century Karmapa who sought to establish his seat-in-exile here to spread the teaching of Buddha throughout the world. The entrance to the main temple is richly adorned with murals, typical of traditional Tibetan monastic painting style. Resplendent in vibrant hues, the interior of the Main Shrine Hall is as stunning in beauty as it is in its aesthetic appeal. It is a treasure trove of sacred objects, the most stunning piece of work being the Golden Stupa containing the invaluable relics of the Karmapa himself. The monastery complex comprises the monk’s quarters circumscribing a huge stone courtyard, wherein, Longfu tells us, ritualistic Lama dance is performed to celebrate special occasions of the Tibetan calendar.

Kachoedpalri Lake

Sikkim’s landscape is interwoven with a deluge of gurgling mountain streams that culminate, at several places, in enormous waterfalls. Fortunately for us, we are able to savour the beauty of the raging waters since we are in Sikkim just at the start of the monsoons. The rains are more in the nature of drizzles and mild showers, allowing the shutterbug in me to click away with my digital companion and capture nature’s mystery to the best of my ability. Yes, for a short spell on the second day of our journey of discovery, we experience a good downpour. And lo, we are bang in the midst of a waterfall that is thundering down uniquely sculpted rock formations, slaking our thirst for adventure. How I wish I could capture this splendorous spectacle on my lens but I know that would be suicidal for my equipment.

MG Road, throbbing with life

Beauty is everywhere in Sikkim, overwhelming us, no matter the direction in which we travel. We “drink in” lungful of cool, fresh mountain air that carries with it the sweet scent of wild blossoms. The place has about it a calm serenity in an exotic blend of finest sights, whether in the sweeping hills of paddy fields, the terraced tea gardens, the placid lakes often hidden inside dense foliages or the small hamlets in the midst of verdure, with valleys and mountains stretching beyond the horizon. It feels as if even the visitors and tourists to Sikkim revere the calm the state is drenched in. For, the tranquility of the surrounds is broken now and then only by Nature itself – in the enchanting twitter of birds, and the rustling leaves upon which tread a couple of canines which do not as much offer a low whine or a whimper!

Our journey to South Sikkim is a trifle eventful to begin with. We have barely traveled for half an hour from Shangri La that we are stuck in a one kilometer long traffic jam caused by a mudslide, the previous night. This too is a welcome respite for us, for we drink in the ambience of our surrounds even as the mild monsoon sun casts its rays liltingly on the mountain tops, giving a glassy sheen to the narrow streams that roll down the ranges. A cornucopia of green in myriad shades gratifies our visual senses as we alight from our vehicle and amble across to the site of the mudslide. Much to our surprise and fascination, the path is cleared within half an hour, and we continue our journey southwards, passing through expansive tea estates, to visit one of the most remarkable statues of Guru Padmasambhava, a Boddhisatva and Patron Saint of Sikkim, at Sanduptse. The 135 feet statue, made from copper, cement and concrete, towers at a height of 151 feet from ground level and is located bang in the midst of emerald green thick forests. Unfortunately for us, the statue is undergoing renovation and hence our view of this magnificent structure is marred by the work. We learn that the foundation stone for the statue was laid by His Holiness, the Dalai Lama.

Mist kissed North Sikkim

As we move away from this structure, we chance upon a snake on our path, trying to shake itself up from slumber. He looks a little drugged, at least I think so, because he not only allows me to get within a foot of him, but also indulges my photographic fancy without posing a threat to my dear life! Unfortunately I’m unable to learn his breed since Longfu has walked far ahead of us to the car park and I see no one around to give me this information. But spotting a variety of species slithering along walkways and roads is a common sight, informs Longfu when I mention this to him.

So close to the Heavens

We are now ready to proceed to Western Sikkim, cruising at a leisurely pace, absorbing the mythical and mystical bounty of the State. Most of Sikkim’s peaks lie on its West and remain unscaled because of the local belief that they are sacred and will lose their sanctity if climbed! Embellished by the Teesta and Rangeet rivers, Sikkim has the steepest rise in altitude over the shortest distance and is profoundly diverse in terms of its geography. The crowning glory of Sikkim, the Kanchenjunga is revered by the Sikkimese as the abode of Dzo-nga, their guardian deity who is evoked even to date, especially during the Pang Lhabsol festival.

Our first stop as we enter the state’s western region via Pelling is at the Tashiding Monastery, bejeweled with murals galore. Tashiding was built in 1717 when a rainbow was spotted, linking the site with the sacred Kanchenjunga. Prayers are in progress during our visit. We notice that its interior is illuminated with flames from copper lamps and perfume from burning incense wafts through the air. Idols of Buddha and various lamas adorn the sanctum wherein before them are placed offerings of rice, oil, and banana.

We continue on our discovery path and come upon the Kechopari (Kechopari meaning Wishing) Lake at an altitude of 6400 feet above sea level. A garden carpeted with an assortment of blossoms and ornamental plants at the entrance, leads us through an avenue of trees to the lake area, its immediate approach being a bridge-like structure made from logs. The stunningly beautiful lake with its placid and crystal clear waters reflects the abundantly green foliaceous canopy bordering it, mountains serving as backdrop. The lake, Longfu informs us, is held sacred by both Hindus and Buddhists alike and enjoys a magical sanctity in that even birds maintain its clean environment by not allowing a single sprig or leaf falling in it, to remain there for more than a few minutes! While still in the West, we visit the Pemayanste Monastery and the Fambrong and Kanchenjunga Waterfalls, each, alluring in its own unique way.

Veiled in Mist and Clouds

The showers are a trifle heavy as we head North on the last day of our stay in Sikkim . The Innova whirs and snarls to heave itself through winding roads that are slushy and strewn with loose rocks in places. We keep our fingers crossed that there should be no landslides to play spoil-sport on this last day. Dark clouds continue to chase us as we make slow progress through thick rainforest stretches. However, by the time we reach our first visiting spot, the Kabi Longstok, the rain gods apparently have decided to be merciful. The clouds have dissipated and we are here, standing before this forested grove, Kabi, where stone markers stood testimony to the historic pact of blood brotherhood between the Bhutias and Lepchas of Sikkim.

We continue to navigate at a leisurely pace, witnessing a host of little and large waterfalls before we come upon the Seven Sisters Waterfall, halting en route to be gently sprayed by the water jets from the Rimbala Falls . Even as we are savouring the delightful “drench”, Longfu points out to a crevice in the rocks extending from the waterfalls, where a cobra lies coiled. Longfu gingerly pokes a stick at the entrance to the crevice, hopeful of bringing the serpent out for a quick photo shoot. The snake is not interested in posing for us; he recoils further and makes no sign to exert himself any further. We wait patiently for his change of heart, but no, he will not oblige.

We wind up our northern sojourn and of Sikkim itself, with a visit to the Phodong and Labrang monasteries. As dusk casts its dark veil over the Sikkimese ranges, thousands of lights illuminate the landscape. The lights appear to blend well with the twinkling heavenly bodies scattered across an enormous and deep cerulean sky. The end of our visit to Sikkim is a little tension-ridden as was our beginning. There is unrest in Darjeeling where the Gorkhas are staging a strike of sorts for a separate Gorkhaland. The Government of Sikkim is asking all tourists to leave Sikkim soon so that we are safe on our way to Bagdogra airstrip or to the railway station at New Jalpaiguri, to reach which we need to necessarily pass Darjeeling. Fortunately for us, Ms.Jolly, the proprietor of Shangri La is at her charming and efficient best. She organizes a couple of Tata Sumo automobiles for her guests for this 4-hour drive to Jalpaiguri. We are a baker’s dozen who pile into the two vehicles and reach the safety of the station, uneventfully, to board our train to Calcutta from where we take a flight back, homeward, to Raipur. The cup of fulfillment is brimming, overflowing, keeping me yet sustained in its trance, a good four months after I’ve returned to base and back to the world of routine, feeling thoroughly rejuvenated from what I yet perceive to be a soulful experience.

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